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How to Build a Walk-In Shower (Part 2: Wedi Panels)(Step-by-Step) — by Home Repair Tutor

If you want to learn how to build a walk-inshower, then youre in the right place. This is my walk-in shower. I personally loveit because its easy to clean. You just walk right in. Theres no tripping overcurbs or tubs. Its phenomenal. Its our dream bathroom that we saved up to remodel.Now heres the deal: In todays video, youre going to see how to build a walk-inshower using the Wedi building panels. They go on your framing, then you put your tileover top of that. And the reason why were showing you this is because we feel like youcan do this yourself. If youre a DIYer or if youre professional, we know thatyou can use the Wedi building panels. So were going to show you how to buildout the walk-in shower today. If you missed our first video, you can watch I right here.Thatll show you how to install the Wedi Ligno shower pan, which is pre-sloped andeasy to install.So right now, lets dive into this video. Well show you how to builda walk-in shower step by step. We did this in less than 6 hours, and we know that youcan do it yourself. So lets do it. Okay, so our back wall with our bench is 5. So were going to have to go ahead and cut this first panel around the bench.You just want to measure down to that dado joint off the top of the bench. So I got 20.It will measure to 12 3/8. So I always just cut my cut mark here.I just use a chalkline. Just score this with a knife. What we do is we fill this dado joint with the Wedisealant, and be very generous with this because thats going to be your major waterproofarea here. So you basically just squeeze that into place.You want to put your first screws from the bottom of the pan. You want to be about 12away from the bottom. And the main reason for this is keeps this joint nice and tight.Because you dont want to screw this in and have this deflecting in and then pullingaway from your dado joint. So about 12 is usually pretty good for that first rowof screws. And then after that every 12. And you want to tighten these washers to thepoint that the washers indent into the Wedi, just kind of like a drywall screw. You wantto just have it recessing. One nice thing about the Wedi: If you missthe stud for any reason, youre just going to be able to apply some sealant over thathole, and itll be waterproof. So about every 12. And then when we do the nextpanel, well be pinching them both together with the washer.One thing that I did want to mention is there is no front and back to the Wedi buildingpanel.But when you see the Wedi wording on it, that gives you orientation. So wellshow you the top and the bottom, the left and right. So when you make a cut, if yousee the Wedi wording on the front, at least you know the right orientation of your cutsand whether or not they are on top or on the bottom. Now what Steve is doing here is applyingthe Wedi sealant on the top of the first panel. Thats critical to create a waterproof seam.Now hes puncturing the back of that first panel to indicate where the hole is for thepipe coming out of the wall and then cutting that hole using a 1 spade bit.We kindof forgot that the pipe was in the wall, and we applied the sealant. So we had to applythe second time to make sure that that seam is 100% waterproof.So yeah, so that really makes it easy to be able to figure out where your hole is justby puncturing back the membrane and then cutting a hole. So now you have the pipe stickingthrough here. Now you can just flash this with the caulking to make it seal around thispipe. But were probably going to end up doing that once we get all the tile in andfiguring out exactly how deep it has to be with our tile work. Okay, so when you putthe next panel in you just pinch the two together with one washer, and that makes a nice, flushtransition. I meant to mention that these building panelsare meant to be on 16 centered walls. So make sure that your framing is 16 on centeror close to it. Now lets go ahead and smooth this out.Were going to be going back over this. We dont want this stuff setting up.So we do have a niche here.And what we did we marked out the bottom of the niche. Goinside here. Were going to cut this out. So we have 34 9/16. And we put our levelmarks for where were going to cut this. Steve used a level to mark out the positionof the niche, as you can see there. And then what hes doing is cutting out the nicheusing a Fein Multi-Master multi-tool. You can also use a utility knife, but using theMulti-Master is way quicker and saves you tons of time.Now what youll do is youllpinch the screws about 1 from the edge of that niche. You can use a chalk line tocut out the rest of your boards. And wherever Wedi meets Wedi, apply a generous amount ofWedi sealant. Only use Wedi sealant. Then you can apply your next board to the top ofthat Wedi sealant. Put it in place. And then again pinch the screws between adjacent boards.This will save you screws, itll save you time, so on and so forth. From the edge ofthe top, youll always want to put a Wedi screw about 1 away from the edge on eitherside. As you can see, thats exactly what Steve is doing here. And only use Wedi screwsand Wedi washers when applying Wedi to your framing. And smooth out any sealant that oozesout between the seams. Again, Steve is marking the position of his niche and cutting it out.So for the niche, well go ahead and cut a bottom sill first.Okay, and you want tomake sure that your sill is actually draining into the shower. So if any water hits theback of the niche, if it gets underneath the tile, make sure that its level to pitchon the shower. You dont need much. Its roughly say per foot, just like theshower pan will be good enough. Just make sure you have Wedi caulking to the bottombuilding panel.And were just going to seal this bottom together. Thats just theWedi sealant. So just make sure that you have enough sealant around the perimeter of theniche. And then wherever Wedi meets Wedi make sure you have This is the most importantjoint Id say here at the bottom here, making sure you have a good caulking joint. Wellsmooth this out for now. Were going to go over this on the final sealant stage.So what our recommendation possibly for the niche if you want to get a little bit deeperof a niche, is to use the real thin board. This is 1/8 thick Wedi, so youll beable to do this in the back and give yourself at least another 3/8 in depth. So itsalways an option.Wherever Wedi meets Wedi, you want to puta nice caulking joint, especially at the bottom, and then going up the side panel as well.So lets set this panel in place. That just makes a nice, flush cut on that.Apply a generous bead of Wedi sealant to the back of the niche and to anywhere where theWedi meets Wedi. In this case, Steve is applying it on the blue part of the Wedi panel, puttingin his small piece for the niche. And then using screws and washers 3 from the top,3 from the bottom, and right at the center of the small portion of the panel.Smoothout the Wedi sealant, so it doesnt gunk up on you. We are going to apply a secondlayer of Wedi sealant later on. But as you can see, Steve is applying a nice, generousbead to anywhere where Wedi meets Wedi. Now one thing we did want to mention is you canbuy a pre-fabricated Wedi niche. In this case, the niche is so small that they didnt makea pre-fabricated one at the factory. So we had to build it using excess Wedi panel. Soyou can do the exact same thing that we did for a customized shower niche. This only tookSteve about 20 minutes for Steve to do, so it doesnt take all that long.Okay, so the most important part of this system is making sure that you have a sufficientamount of sealant in your dado joint before you adhere that panel into the channel.Sobe very generous with the amount. And thats what also is nice is to have some blockingbehind here. Now we recessed this pan below the subfloor. So I mean its your bottomplate allows it to just squeeze up against that. But its a good idea just to fillthis entire joint with sealant. All right, in where the corner where Wedi meets Wedi,you want to make sure you have a nice joint. You can see the way thats oozing onto thatjoint. That shows that you have a good amount of coverage in there. Were going to begoing back over this, but you dont want this to setup and be all clumpy in the corners.So again about 1 from the bottom and then every 1 after that.Notice that Steve ispositioning the washers on the Wedi panels, then hes going to back and screw them intoplace. You can also draw a vertical plumb line on the Wedi panel using you level anda pencil or just a chalk line. We have a port here for a handheld shower,so were just going to demonstrate how you easily be able to find where that locationis. So you usually have an area where thats at. So that makes it pretty easy to find.Okay, so that dry fits well. So wherever Wedi meets Wedi, put a good caulking joint.Wherever two panels meet, you can pinch them together using a screw and a washer. Wherevertwo screws meet in a corner, you always want to stagger the screws. And then youll seehere that again Steve is just puncturing the back of the Wedi panel and then cutting itout using a utility knife.That is so much easier than using a cement board, which canlead to you have to measure and cut it out. So wherever Wedi meets Wedi, you got to usethe Wedi sealant. Apply it to the blue portion of the board. To the corner, like Steve didthere. Youll see many of the principles that were showing you right now, wereusing over and over again throughout this video tutorial, like pinching the screws,putting them 1 from the top of the framing or the edge of the board, and so on.So after you have two walls put in, you have over half an hour of time. You can take offthe weight out of the shower.Okay, so against the bench, were goingto end up Wedi-ing this entire bench and tub surround. But for right now, were goingto just go to the edge of the shower, and were going to just notch out the Wedi sothat this sets down into the dado of the shower pan. So if youre not going to waterproofthe entire tub surround, you definitely want to come out a good 2 to 3 outside ofthe shower area and seal this down. Were going to make sure that it sits tightly toour subfloor here. Sits well with that dado channel. Again, fill this joint with the Wedicaulking. Again, make sure you clean out this joint of any thinset or any debris, and makesure that you could get adhesion to the actual foam pan. You dont want anything hinderingthis sealant from making contact with the actual Wedi. Wedi the corner. And what weregoing to here were actually going to use the Wedi caulking on the main subfloor aswell. Now there will be a waterproof heated cable system that were going to be usingon the outside of here.But were just going to seal this Wedi panel to the subfloor. Tehnwell show you how were going to complete the waterproofing of the edge of that.On this bench material, were just going to be screwing a washer about 1 away fromthe top of the edge, and were going to stay within 8-12 from the bottom ofthe panel. So just like your other wall panels, you just want to make sure that youre atleast 8-12 away from the bottom of the panel.And every 12.Okay, so on this bench any horizontal surface that you put Wedi down, you dont want touse the washers and screws and screw in horizontally. So were going to thinset this board downinstead of using any of the fasteners. notch trowel. Again, either flat side yourtrowel and burn it into the substrate first. Where the Wedi is, you want to wipe that thinsetoff and get down to the blue because youre going to want to seal the Wedi to the Wediwith the sealant, not the thinset. So with the sealant, too, you dont have to worryabout it being wet. Itll seal itself to the membrane even wet, even with a littlebit of water on it. Were also just going to back butter the back of the Wedi as well.So yeah, anything Wedi to Wedi make sure you have a good amount of sealant. Wipe the excesssealant. Smooth for now. Hopefully when youve framed it, you sloped it as well. You alwayswant to make sure that your bench is sloping into the shower, so when you tile it, if anywater gets below the tile, that youre waterproofing double the drain that water.So here we gotabout per foot. So thats about what you want. Yeah were pretty level that way.So just double check. You can always possibly build up the thinset and get that slope ifyou needed it. Wherever Wedi meets Wedi, apply your generousbead of Wedi sealant. In this case its up against the framing as well, where thebench seat is going to be, and then up the wall. And this is really important becausein this particular shower, the sprayers are going to be hitting that back wall possibly.Now water goes everywhere in a walk-in shower, so you have to make sure that youve got100% waterproof panels. In this case, the Wedi system really helps you do that. Again,what Steve is doing is placing the washers about 8-12 up from the bottom, and thensmoothing out any of the Wedi sealant that oozes out between the panels. And also going12 in between the screws and then up the wall again. Many of the principles that wevealready showed you with the other panels were using with this wall as well, all right? Sojust continue to follow these general principles, and you should be good to go.So this is your plumbing wall. I also meantto mention that you can install this panel. It doesnt matter whether the letteringson the front or the back because each side is waterproof. So it really doesnt matterwhich way you install the panel. So were just going to use our panel. Puncture thecenter. Im just going to use a 3 hole saw for my dial. You can obviously just cutthis out with a utility knife, too. But this looks a little bit nicer. Okay.So make sure you clean out that joint before you go installing some new dado. Then ourWedi meets Wedi. So then in the corners you want to offset your washers. So you dontwant to put the washer next to a washer in the corner and have that big void all theway around that corner. What were doing now is prepping for theWedi sealant. Were applying a generous bead of Wedi sealant against the framing.And then Steve is marking out the position of the joists on the Wedi panels so that heknows how to attach the screws through the panels.Okay, so we put our sealant around the edge of the perimeter of the shower where Wediis going to meet Wedi.So the biggest difference we do in a ceiling is the spacing of yourwashers. You want to go every 6 rather than every 12. And were actually goingto be putting another little piece here, so were going to put these two together. Itjust requires a lot more fasteners. To make life a lot easier with the ceiling,you can place your washers in them every 6 like Steve is doing here. Sometimes it justmakes it a little bit easier to place the washers first then drill the Wedi screws throughthem. Its up to you. Whatever you want to do is fine. But in this particular case,sometimes its nice to just have the washers in place and then screw them.So as Steve mentioned earlier, we had to place a little piece of the Wedi panel up on theceiling there. Not a big deal. Just screw your washers in about 1 from the edge.And then pinch your washers and screws in between the adjacent panel.Okay, so now that we have all the building panels up, were going to go ahead and applythe Wedi sealant to all our screw washers, all the joints and all the corners.Two toolsthat are really helpful: Wedi actually sells a corner putty knife. This makes it tremendouslyeasy to have a nice joint in the corners, keeping you from scraping out the sealantin the corner. So definitely get yourself one of these. And this is just a standard4 putty knife. And the rule of thumb is pretty much getting 2 of coverage on ajoint. So 1 on either side of the corners. So thats kind of what youre lookingfor. But its a very simple process. Lets show you how to go across. You just have anice, thick bead of the sealant. You know, Ill do this whole wall first rather thangoing back and forth with the putty knife. But you want to just dot every one of yourwashers. And then the corners. Just put a generous amount in that corner. Thats wherethe sausage gun is really helpful because you have a lot more caulking in this tube.You get a lot more done than just a regular caulking gun.Okay, so your corners.So a corner putty knife really makes a nice, sealed joint in thatcorner. So that makes a nice corner joint there. As you can see I have some of my washerthere. So you just want to make sure that each washer is completely covered. Thatswhere the flat putty knife is helpful with that. So anywhere you see those washers. Andreally anywhere you missed the Wedi screw, make sure you just apply that sealant overthat joint as well. Anywhere a Wedi panel meets a Wedi panel oryou have a screw hole or a washer, make sure you apply generous amounts of the Wedi sealantbecause this after all is what will make the Wedi panels 100% waterproof. So be generouswith the Wedi sealant. All right, so around the niche you just wantto fill inyou dont have to worry about the blue being exposed necessarily, but youwant to be able to coat this entire joint that we have between the side panel and thefront panel here.Because even if this blue is exposed, its still waterproof. Thisis actually the waterproofing. So you dont actually necessarily have to have that allcovered, but you probably will be having it all covered once you spread out the sealant.Be generous with the Wedi sealant where our vertical building panel meets up with thepan because this is where you want to make sure that its 100% waterproof. Keep inmind that the building panels are sitting down into the dado joint and alreadyhave sealant on them. So this is really a second layer of the Wedi sealant. Now in thiscase were applying more of the sealant on the bench because this is exposed to thesprays and the shower head. And also the corner between the vertical board and the showerseat itself. And then smooth out all those joints, ensuring that you get that 2 bandwithin the seams.So one of the things that I absolutely loveabout the Wedi system is, you know, a lot of times you do this waterproofing beforetiling. And you have other contractors coming in and working on the place. And its justvery easy for somebody to puncture the membrane. And what I wanted to share with youthisis just one of the washers that we have. Now imagine if you used a different type of systemthat was only just a surface membrane, and if you were to step on this, you could easilyjust puncture a membrane. But with the Wedi system, this is thick. So as long aswhatever you drop, say even a utility knife that falls into this pan, as long as it doesntactually penetrate all the way through the pan, youre safe.Its going to be waterproof.So thats one of the features about the Wedi system I absolutely love. You donthave to be as nervous about dropping a tool or dropping something that could possiblypuncture the top of the surface because youre still waterproof underneath that as long asit doesnt go all the way through the pan. And thats a very common time is betweenhaving other contractors coming in and doing different work before you do the tile. Ifyou did a sheet membrane of some sort, it would be very difficult for you to tell wheresomething was dropped and potentially where something was compromised with the waterproofing.But with the Wedi, I mean even if you dropped a good size hammer hole, you can just fillin this hole with some Wedi caulking and be good to go.Okay, so with the Wedi shower pan, itll come with these little pieces of Wedithat is made to fill in anywhere that the shower is going to be curbless.And itsreally important to use this between the subfloor and the main floor. And youre just goingto seal this in just like you do everything else with the Wedi sealant. And it seems alittle silly to have such a small piece, but the main important part about this is thatif you just fill that with sealant, its not going to have the strength it needs forsay if you have smaller mosaic tile, theres going to be a little bit of a flex. So youwant to make sure you have this little piece of Wedi embedded into this joint.Okay, so well fill that just like all the other dados. Just apply a normal 1 layersealant on either side of this. And then what we have is a Wedi subliner. And what you wantto do is So in this situation, you always want to havewaterproofing going outside of your curbless entry, at least by 3 or so, and wrappingup the sides of the liner up the wall about 4.So this is prior to obviously beforewere going to be installing the drywall, and then you have this against the Wedi. Alwaysgo 4 up above your corners, and then 4 past your seam of your shower. So you wantthis subliner coming into the shower. Now in this particular situation were actuallygoing to put a heated flooring system outside the shower. So this subliner will go overtop of that heating system after we have that installed. But I just want to reference thatif you were not going to install a heating system, you just put this straight down overthe plywood by thinsetting this and wrapping up by 4. And then you just simply cut theexcess of the doorway and allow this to flap over and into the shower.Okay, so thats it.Thats installing the waterproof Wedi shower system. And whatsawesome about it is that that took about a half a day to install this entire waterproofsystem. And I can actually get started on tiling here. Basically after you seal allthe joints, about 30 minutes after that you can start tiling. And if I wanted to do aflood test on the floor, which I do recommend, you can go ahead and flood test this showerfloor two hours after having it installed. So really theres no other system that canbe that quick. Its really incredible. A traditional way of doing this, youd beset back two, three days easy. So thats one of the major reasons I love Wedi.Andall of that, just the simplicity of putting everything together.So I hope this helps you out. I really feel that anybody can do this. You just followthese tips and the way to install it, and youll definitely have peace of mind thatyou have a waterproof shower. So thank you. All right, so thats how you build a walk-inshower. Remember if you missed the first video, you can watch that right here. It shows youhow to build out the Wedi Ligno shower pan. If you liked todays video, give us a thumbsup over here on YouTube, so that people can find it. And then finally, if youre lookingfor more advanced bathroom remodeling videos, you can check them out over on BathroomRepairTutor.com.So you can go to BathroomRepairTutor.com. Thats where we have support for DIYers;we got extra videos. Actually we have over 100 different videos for you to watch on tilingthe floor, tiling the shower, putting in waterproofing for your floor, and so much more. So again,you can check that out on BathroomRepairTutor.com.Thanks for watching todays video. Wellsee you in the next one. Take care. Have a great day..

How to Apply Mapei Grout (Keracolor U) on Shower Wall Tiles (Step-by-Step)

Mapei grout is regarded to be certainly one of thebest grouts for a shower encompass, and in these days I have got to grout this 12 x 24 tile. Im going to be utilising Mapeis KeracolorU, which stands for unsanded grout, and the motive why is the grout joints are not any biggerthan 1/8. Plus, I dont wish to scratch the surfaceof this tile. And if you have a very sensitive tile thatyoure working with, you may also want to don’t forget Keracolor U or an unsanded grout for thatparticular job. So were going to be sharing tips and tricksthat weve realized over the years, that Ive realized from my chum, Steve White,who is a reliable bathroom remodeler here in Pittsburgh, and also our buddy, Sal DiBlasi,who has an first rate YouTube channel that you simply should without doubt assess out.Lets dive into the educational proper now. Heres the Keracolor U that I acquired. Now, again the cause why I did it is becausethese glazed tiles behind me, I dont wish to scratch them. So being unsanded makes this a first-class optionfor these tiles. The other thing is its polymer enriched,this means that that youre going to have much less staining with this grout. Now that you could add grout maximizer to it, whichIm going to be doing today, as a substitute of water. And the grout maximizer signifies that you dontneed to seal the Keracolor U, and its going to be approach higher, stain-resistant than othergrouts which can be in the market. Before we do anything with the Keracolor U,have been going to dry combo it in view that we dont colour version on this grout. So by means of dry blending it, youre mixing allthe pigments collectively in the bag if they have settled to the backside, and youre goingto get higher color consistency.So that is the Grout MAXimizer. Had been going to combine this with the KeracolorU. And what it does is it adds that extra stain security, strengthens the grout, andmakes the colour consistency rather just right. You will have to additionally shake up the Grout MAXimizer. Had been going to pour in most of this. Were going to order about 15% of it atthe backside here. And now Im going to pour in most of this10-lbs bag. You should utilize a section of drywall. In this case, its a bit of KERDI Board. Im simply going to fish my mixer up throughthere, and were going to combine this up pretty excellent.So one thing I do wish to inform you is youdont wish to whip this up too much considering you’ll get air into the mixture, and thatwill cause pinholes to kind on your grout. So dont go hog wild on this. Once youre completed mixing this, permit it toslake or just sit right here for approximately 5 minutes. At the same time we wait for the grout to slake, makesure that your grout joints dont have any thinset in them. Certainly you must have accomplished this when youset the tile. Should you do see thinset or any form of shimsstuck in here, remove them for the reason that youre going to have to p.C. The grout joints obviouslywith the Keracolor U. So just inspect everything. Make sure that your tiles are exceptional and cleanas a lot as viable. And in that way, youll be able to packthe grout into the grout joint.Now that weve waited 5 minutes, what youcan do is take a margin trowel like this one. Its now not precisely clean, but this thinsetis set on there. Its now not going anywhere. And i would just scrape off the surplus KeracolorU thats on the part of the bucket and get it into the core of the bucket the place youcan mix it. You need to mix up the Keracolor U for another1 or 2 minutes.However again, dont go crazy with the blending. Just adequate to type of whip all of it collectively. As quickly as youre carried out mixing this up, goahead and easy off your tools. Mapeis instructional materials propose taking adamp sponge, now not an excellent moist sponge, but a humid sponge and simply wiping down the tilesurface. That method the grout will float over it. And you surely dont want any standingwater in the grout joints.So Im simply making use of a general rubber groutfloat to % the joints with the Keracolor U. So as you’ll find here, that is the consistencyof the grout after using the Grout MAXimizer and following the instructional materials. So it is vitally much like a thick peanut butterconsistency. Im going to begin at the top and work myway left to right and down. Have been going to split this into two sections:the slanted one, after which the vertical part down below.Now I do have a gap between the tile and ceiling. Im no longer going to fill that with the grout. Im going to be utilizing the Mapei sealantfor that. So all Im doing is packing the joints andremoving the excess grout. Im just going to be disposing of the excessgrout on the skin of the tile thats not nearly the grout joint. So over here I used a Schluter profile betweenthe tile and the wall. And Im just going to be filling that transitionwith the Keracolor. We have now this transition right here where the wallslants down after which goes vertical. I’m simply going to fill that in with grout. Now in the corner right here where these two wallsmeet, were not going to be filling this in with Keracolor U. Were going to be making use of our sealant. Have been simply going to % these verticaljoints right here on this most important wall. When we get all the way down to the bathtub-to-tile transitionright here, again, were not going to be filling this joint here with Keracolor U. Had been going to be filling it with sealant. So any type of grout that will get in this joint,youre going to must remove it.After this fundamental wall is done, have been goingto move on to the plumbing wall. One thing I need to point out about the plumbingwall: Im quite, relatively bummed about this in terms of the tile job. That was completed in view that I had a excellent planfor it, and that i meant to execute it. And i bought caught up in making a video, andI totally messed up. So down in the comments let me comprehend if youcan see where I messed up on this wall. Wholly bums me out. So again, Im just going to begin at thetop right here and fill on this grout joint. And have been going to fill in the Schluterprofile as well. That is p.C.Door casing proper right here. That is water-resistant. Its intended for outside. That said, i am not going to be grouting inbetween it and the tile.Had been going to be using sealant right here aswell. I did forget to sponge down this tile witha damp sponge, however on account that its so glossy, , it relatively isnt an hindrance. But if you have tile that doesnt have thisfinish, you definitely dont wish to fail to remember to use a humid sponge to it for the reason that it willallow your grout flow to float over the tile. As youre grouting, simply make sure thatthere arent any pinholes in this. There arent any voids. Rather take a close appear at the grout andmake certain thats its performing the way in which that you simply need it to participate in, which is basicallyjust packed into the joint; no voids in it whatsoever. Before I transfer on to the next wall, Im justgoing to scrub off the bathtub. Incidentally, that is also a excellent time to getany grout off the ceiling that you just obtained on the ceiling.You dont wish to let it take a seat on there. So heres the final wall within the tub field. Again, weren’t going to be filling inthis corner joint or the joint between the tile and the tub with the grout. Have been going to depart that empty. Oh, and incidentally, this piece of marble right here,there is a joint in between it and the top tile. Again, Im no longer going to fill that in withgrout both. But this joint proper right here between the tileand the Schluter profile, i am going to fill in with grout. Theres a tiny 1/16 grout joint betweenthe Schluter profile and the tile. One thing I did wish to mention used to be you canuse your finger to device that joint between the Schluter profile and the tile. After which in the end, have been going to grout thissmall little face right right here. However really, many of the grout joint is justthe Schluter profile. We simplest have one grout joint correct right here forthe tile. After about 15-30 minutes, the Keracolor Uwill without doubt stiffen up, and also you will have to have two buckets of water. So Ive most likely been utilising this one toclean the tub.We will have to more commonly swap it out for smooth water. So one for wringing the sponge out in. So you want a damp sponge. There shouldnt be water dripping from this. You need a damp sponge. Youre going to software the grout joint. And while you get grout on the sponge, youregoing to wring it out in this soiled bucket here. Then youre going to dip it in right here to furtherclean it, moisturize itfor the shortage of a greater termand go back to the tile andtool the grout joint and cast off any extra grout thats on the outside of the tile.So for illustration, weve bought some grout there. Some grout on the ceiling right here. Im trying to handiest device in one directionusing this sponge. And in this case, Im just doing that downwardmotion in between the tile and the Schluter profile. And you ought to pay specified concentration thatyoure now not putting off the grout from that joint. Now Im simply going to be making use of the spongeto instrument the grout joints by using hand. In the grout joint, the grout must be prettymuch flush with the tile. To additional support with the tooling, you canmove your sponge diagonally to the grout joints. And a good way to help. What particularly helps at this factor is attentionto element and just rather inspecting every single grout joint for pinholes, for voidsto make sure that it appears good whilst you tool it with the damp sponge.However you dont want to device it an excessive amount of becausethat can surely lead to F fluorescents with Portland cement based merchandise. What must not be happening is the spongebe tremendous moist and youre placing water in between the grout joint and the grout. You dont need that to occur. So be certain that is just damp. The next move is to fill in all the jointsbetween the tub and the tile and the corners and at the ceiling. Im going to be utilising Mapesil T for that. Im going to at the corner right here andwork from right to left. Its simply less difficult for me to do this. No I just dipped my finger into some waterand tool this joint right here. Im going to try this for the entire tubsurround. Now I admit its usually better to havethe bath full of water. Had been simply now not within the position to do thatright now when you consider that of the plumbing on this dwelling.But if that you could, fill the tub up with waterand then fill the joint between the tile and the tub with the sealant. About 1-2 hours after you grout the tile,you could see a haze. If you happen to do, you can use a microfiber clothto dispose of that. You just transfer the microfiber fabric acrossthe tile in a round motion, clearly youre buffing the tile, and shining it, making itlook quite good. The entire hints in this video must helpyou grout your bathe encompass. Now if you want extra precise step-with the aid of-stepvideo tutorials like this one, and youre redoing a bathroom, click on correct right here. Itll take you again on over to dwelling RepairTutor where which you could take a seem at our on-line publications.Theyre lovely extraordinary. I suppose youll like them if you’re goingto be doing a toilet reworking task. Thats it for today. Thanks a lot for observing the video. If youve got any questions, let me recognize. Identity be greater than pleased to help you out. Take care..

How to Grout a Shower Niche with Laticrete Permacolor Select — by Home Repair Tutor

Were going to grout this shower. Weregoing to make use of Permacolor decide upon, which is a high efficiency grout by way of Laticrete.What I think is without doubt one of the coolest things about this Permacolor is that in actual fact youget these color packets to this may be sincerely your grout base, and you then geta color packet to get the colour of the grout that you need.So for example, this loo, were going to be doing the mocha on the ground, and thenwere going to do shiny white for the walls. So, what I believe is just excellent about thisis that i will be able to purchase one bag of this and have enough to do my ground and my partitions for thebathroom, with no waste virtually. On the whole, you get grout bag you purchase onebag of your coloured white and one bag of anything your different colours going to be, and youbasically use a portion of that bag, and the leisure of its kind of thrown out. So I thinkthis is a fine financial technique to get all the grout that you just want on your bathroomand now not create an excessive amount of waste.But the other great thing about that is that its a highperformance grout. It could go down to 1/16 inch grout joint.So, mainly youre no longer going to have really so much its commonly going to solveall of your problems. Theres no longer quite too many a difficulty that you just go below a 1/16inch for the grout joint. However the different first-class factor is that its within the kind of layout.Theres no sealing of the grout, so you dont have got to seal it. Upon getting installedit, its already cured tough ample that it doesnt tackle any stains or thingslike that. So its style of like an awfully easy grout to not most effective set up however participate in wellover time.Whilst you buy this grout, you get one in every of thesejugs, and youll be filling your colour packet with the proper quantity of water. So we gota 12 lb bag. Well fill it up to our line that we have now there, and were goingto virtually just sincerely do half bag. This bag will customarily do about 200 sq toes ofsubway tile. We only have about 75 sq toes on the walls, after which we have now like forty sq fton the floor. So we’ve a lot of grout to do each of them. So good just cut up thebag and make it convenient to split them up. Simply ensure you’ve your water to yourfill line. That is your little colour packet.So the other quality thing about this is thatif you sincerely like each and every any such packets are, , under $10. So itsa fairly economic method of doing this. And then for those who wanted to combine up extra grout at somepoint, you just ought to buy an additional colour packet and then combine it with your grout base.Okay, so were going to just use half of of this given that had been simplest mixing half a bag.We advocate mixing the Permacolor select for roughly 2 minutes straight so that you getthe right consistency. That is really fundamental. After your first mixing i might recommendmixing for at least 2 minutes straight. Be certain that the whole thing is one hundred% blended collectively.And then you definately must let it sit down for 5 minutes after which mix it for an extra minute after that.So just wait 5 minutes, and blend it, and had been able to use.Ok, so had been going to do two exclusive grout colors. Had been going to do it the darkerbasically, the mocha grout that have been utilising for the ground to match this again niche. SoI would suggest ordinarily doing the darker first so that you just dont get it for your whitegrout joints.When you did the white first, I think so that it will be frustrating, and youllhave a rough time cleansing the grout line of those joints.So do the dark first. Youre going to have got to let that thoroughly installed. After which thenext day, do the white grout. The first thing is simply to take an actual dampsponge and simply wipe down your tile. You simply wish to make sure that everythings cleanedoff of it. After which simply percent the entire joints first before scraping it off.Then try togo on a forty five if which you could. Simply pretty much attempt to do away with scraping too much out of eachgrout joint. Its style of more difficult for the smaller field. After which Im simply going towipe off my sill right here. Let that set up earlier than wiping whatever off.As a rule, it takesthe high efficiency stuffabout 25 minutes depending on humidityto established ample. And essentially what youre looking forand well come again and testthis, butwhen you contact this, you dont wish to see any grout variety of pulling outwith your finger. You kind of need to make it it will have to consider lovely company or prettyclose to developing before you wipe it off. But that every one depends on your humidity leveland temperature. But you really dont wish to wipe it off formerly.You fairly wantto make this its going to in most cases look moderately dry. Some of these things is goingto look dry before we definitely begin wiping it off.By the way, before we fail to remember, we did do a video that gives you tips on the right way to tile astacked subway tile bathe. If youre inquisitive about that video, that you may click on right here tocheck it out. Again, you simply need to press on the jointand see if anything pulls out to your finger. However you’ll discover that all of the grout on thetile is lovely dry, and that looks beautiful excellent. You particularly need to simply have it enoughmoldable so as to like particularly wash this without problems and it additionally holds the joint.Ifyou let the whole lot dry to the point where it will get to where the tile is, youre justreally working hard to scrub it and also you cant fairly software the joint. Tool the joint, meaningwhen you render your sponge throughout, youre variety of simply smoothing out that grout jointagainst the tile. So grouting really is solely particularly paying attentionto the minor subtleties of what youre wiping off. You dont wish to get too aggressivewith it and pull too much of the grout out of the joint. You simply want to sort of smoothout these joints just a little bit so its first-rate and flush with the tile. And should you use toomuch water on the sponge, that you could grow to be washing out the joint and end up ruining the groutjoint. And the only thing i will say about that is if that happens, the next day yourejust going to need to re-grout the subject, or even a couple of hours really.Considering that thisstuff might be lovely good cured in a couple of hours. But after you have an excessive amount of wateron your sponge, you start washing on any joints, theres fairly nothing you are able to do untilit dries. And then that you can scrape it out. And thats a nice thing about this grout,too, on the grounds that its all the way down to 1/16 inch grout joint. For those who had a joint that variety of washedout a bit bit, which you can just observe extra to that discipline as long as you will have like 1/16inch of space to fill in. So that you dont want like to scrape out the complete joint to redoany form of restore. Now, this may increasingly all haze over again. And thenyou just need to use a bucket of water and smooth that off.However i might wait for a secondcleaning for a minimum of an hour or so; maybe wait two hours. Let this factor completelycure up before you go scrubbing it once more. However this may occasionally, you understand, when you wait tillthe subsequent morning and are available back or whatever, this might be fully hazed over again.However just a bit bit of water, once more, will get rid of the haze.As soon as the grout has established, which you could then use a flexible sealant. On this case, we used100% silicone to seal between the vertical mosaic and then the horizontal sill plate.Give us a thumbs up should you just like the pointers in todays video. Additionally, if youre buildinga basement lavatory and you want to be trained 7 professional guidelines thatll aid you out with that,click proper here. The guide is utterly free. Its short and to-the-factor. And the 7 protips that we share could really help you out really somewhat.Well also update you on theonline path that had been making concerning the shower that we showed you in todays video.Thanks a lot for observing todays tutorial. If you happen to acquired any questions, ask them down inthe comments, and had been more than joyful to help you out.Take care!.

The Best Tile Leveling System for Bathroom Tile — by Home Repair Tutor

Okay, so are you going to be tiling your bathroomor kitchen? What is the best solution to get your grout joints watching awesomenice and evenand with out lippage? Personally, the great factor that you can do is use a tile levellingsystem, and the Tuscan kind Leveling procedure is without doubt one of the first-rate out there. So today Imgoing to exhibit you find out how to use their seam clips and their strapping cap system. So letsjump into the video proper now. So the primary process that had been going todiscuss is the cap and strap system. Comes with a cap; comes with a strap. Lovely easy.All correct guys, I threw collectively some inset. This is not excellent. It truely appears prettycrappy. You could inform theres now not plenty of insurance policy on the Kerdi board correct here. Andits lumpy, and its old thinset. So this isn’t a thinsetting tutorial. Sincerely thisis just for demonstration.So what you may do is place your tile onthe thinset. Now you additionally need to back-butter this. Like I stated this is relatively a bad mixfor thinset. So rather make this be significantly better if this was once for real. However again thisis for demo. All right, so we’ve got our 80% coverage here.So what you can do is position this down on the Kerdi board, or up on the Kerdi boardif this can be a shower, correct? So put this here. Then you can take your strap and cap, andyou would slide this beneath the tile. So you need to be about 2 to three inches awayfrom the threshold of the tile; otherwise, that you could ruin the tile, and that wouldnt begood. So you need to slip the strap beneath it. And you need to area the cap and strapsystem about 6 to 10 inches far from each and every different. So if we slide this over or removethis out, we put this over like that about 2 inches.Then we might slide this underneath likeso. All right, so had been 6 inches away. Had been 2 inches away or so from the threshold of the tile.Had been just right to go. Your next step is to position your next tile adjacentto the earlier tile. Now this strap is proper in the middle. And what you could do if youwanted to is location spacers on either part of it. Due to the fact this creates a 1/32 grout joint,that you would be able to truely put spacers in between. You are able to do that if you want to. You then positionyour different caps and straps. You might back-butter this tile, then you possibly can position it up againstthe caps and the straps like so.That you may slide the cap and strap down so that it locks ontop of the tiles like so. The Tuscan Leveling system requires an ergonomicgun like this one. This units the tension of the cap and strap. So on the back of it, thehigher the numberso it begins at 1, 2, 3, 4the greater the quantity, the more tensionyoure going to place down onto the tile. So the greater the tile, the better the tensionyou would want. So had been going to begin out with 2. What you do is you slide the gunover the strap, and you simply press it until it fairly ratchets down on the tile.So youdo that for all the caps and the straps. So as you can find, all the grout joints arenice and even. You probably have any thinset that squeezes through, you wipe it out using awire brush or a sponge. You definitely dont want this to established. So as you’ll discover, thereisnt any lippage, and thats precisely what you wish to have to achieve. No lippage andnice and even grout joints. That you could additionally use a handbook gun to tighten down on these straps.So again, what you may do is you could possibly slide this down; simply ratchet down on the strap.After about 24 hours or when the thinset units up, which you can snap the strap.And also you do thatby surroundings the ergonomic gun to S. So what you would do is slide the gun back overlike so with the gun on S. You can press down on the set off, and it breaks itloose. So you could possibly try this for every single cap and strap. And it leaves you with a perfectgrout joint. You should use the manual gun to break the strapsand the caps. Set it from inexperienced to purple. Again simply slide it over the strap and smash itoff. So the cool factor is that this, which you can actuallyreuse the caps. You cant reuse the straps. However you simply separate the cap from the strap,and you can use the cap up to about 25 times.What that means for a DIYer is that if youwanted to promote the caps, you might. If you’re a trades individual or youre a tile setter,you can use these caps, like I mentioned, as much as 25 occasions. Just purchase the straps.Admittedly the caps and the straps perhaps better for a person whos installing a lotof tile. So what if youre a DIYer? What should you decide upon? Good the seam clips areawesome. So my friend, Steve, who is a professional rest room remodeler, uses both techniques, andhe really just started to fall in love with the seam clip since its so handy to usewith tile. The seam clips are available three one of a kind colors:white, blue, and pink. And theres a motive for that. The white Tuscan seam clips arefor gauge tiles that variety kind 1/8 to not up to thick. The blue color is for tiles to less than 3/8 thick.And the crimson seam clip is for gauge tile thats three/8to thick. What that implies is you need measure your tile earlier than you buy the seamclips. So for instance, this tile here is set thick. So I must use the blue seamclip. You employ the seam clip similar to you wouldthe cap and strap. Slide it in about 2 to three inches from the edge, and you utilize at least2 per part. Now on this case this can be a very brief side, so Im simply going to place itinto the middle. This is the historic cap and strap procedure, so Im going to throw this in thebucket. Surely I forgot to do that for these, too.So Im going to take these out.So once more you simply need to place these 2 inches from the intersection like so. This tile shouldbe again-buttered. Situation it over the T thats within the cap and the strap. And thiscreates a 1/32 grout joint so in case you desired to, that you could put in some style of spacer. Hereyour tile is all set, and you without difficulty press down on the seam clip so you hear a click.So you do that for all of the seam clips.And there you go. Its really that simple.You get a first-class, even grout joint. And when youre finished, all you do is you’re taking a hammer,and you pound these out of the grout joint. What do you do for those who must take a breakbetween tiling? So we could say you only finished might be half of this wall, and you need to continueto use the cap and the strap or the seam clip. What you do is that this. You tuck the seam clipor the cap and the strap into the thinset, in between the tile and in this case the Kerdiboard. Create a void. You pull out the seam clip or the cap and strap and you leave thatvoid there.The next day, you fill in the void with extra thinset. And also you slide thecap and the strap or the seam clip in and use it where you left off.Good day guys, I desired to take this possibility to thank Duluth trading for aiding HomeRepair Tutor. They have got top notch shirts and pants and all different types of first-class stuff. Even undies.I love their undies. Its at ease. And thats some of the explanations why I wearit, and that i wore their stuff before they even sponsored residence repair Tutor.So this is the mens free-swinging flannel. Its made up of a hundred% cotton. It has armpitguts which allow you to swing a hammer freely, keep warm, and appear cool even as.So that you can verify out this shirt and other articles of garb over at DuluthTrading.Com.K so thats how you get superb grout joints using the Tuscan seam clips and theTuscan cap and strap system.We hope that you simply like this video. If you happen to did, supply us athumbs up over on YouTube. That you would be able to like our YouTube channel. That way you wont missout on our weekly videos. And also, are you looking to redo your lavatory? If you’re,you must sign up for our free video series. Its great. Its obtained a ton of informationin there so that it will prevent money and time and likewise provide the self belief to dive intothat style of mission. So head on over to HomeRepairTutor.Com, signup for the free video series. You wont be disappointed, we promise you that.All proper, thanks again for observing todays video. Well see you subsequent week. Take care,and have a fine day..

How to Tile a Shower Wall…Subway Tile Tips on Plumbing Wall — by Home Repair Tutor

In this video, were going to offer you tipson tile a bathe wall, especially the plumbing wall in a curbless shower thatused 3×6 subway tile. In addition, had been going to discuss the unique tools thatmake this a lot less complicated. Incidentally, before I fail to remember, if youre buildinga curbless bathe and you want to peer how we developed the one in this video, we’ve got aseries of tutorials correct right here for you. What had been going to do on right here is basicallyend our subway tile at the end of our bathe subject, and then allow this bullnose to be outsidethe shower area.The fundamental purpose I wish to do that is: one, my waterproofing ends atthe end of my shower, so i have all these items that I dont want to sand down or are trying tofixsome of the sealant sticking out here and, like I stated, the backer boards endingat the end of my bathe. So its invariably kind of first-rate to be in a position to deliver or the edgeof your tile a few inches outside the shower. And now not best that, but my bathe doorsgoing to be sitting straight on the center of this transition. So its great to havea couple of inches outside of that the place the fixed panel goes into.In order that being said, with subway tile, our whole dimensions 32 inches. That worksout beautiful well with subway tile due to the fact that well have what I regularly cherish to do is juststart out my full tile and half tile stacked on the edge of the shower, and then scribecut and fit my nook.So good clearly have, if we begin outat the entire tile, about a 5 piece. So had been just cutting a half inch off of eachside over here, so they can look pretty just right. As you saw, we set the primary row of tile usinga laser level. That is an older Bosch laser degree, but we love it considering the fact that it has threedifferent settings. The primary environment is for your crosshair. This laser is undoubtedly brightenough. Its about three or four toes far from the tile. Because the batteries die, so willthe laser brightness. The second atmosphere is a horizontal laser.And the third environment is your plumb laser line.We additionally use the vertical laser to put in Schluter-RONDEC and be certain that itsperfectly plumb with the tile. This Bosch laser level also has an adaptoron the bottom that permits you to use it with a general tri-pod.Very very like with the principal bathe wall, we had to diminish these first tiles to fitthe contour of the bathe pan.Then we utilized our Ardex seventy seven with the flat side of the trowel,after which use directional troweling upwards so all the trowel ridges face the same path.We did back-butter these tiles considering, consider, these tiles must have a offered bond to thebacker board. After which we additionally aligned them with our laser degree. So again, its veryimportant to have that laser stage aligned with the first row of tile on the important showerwall. After which add your horseshoe shim underneath these for a selection and contraction joint.We had to scribe reduce the first row of tile to fit the contour of this curbless showerpan, and we used an attitude grinder for that. This is the Fein WSG 7. Its a four anglegrinder. There are surely two editions: ordinary change on the part here; otherwise you canget the WSG 7 with a paddle switchso thats extra of an elongated switch on the side.We also used the diamond blade with the WSG 7.That is DeWalts XP4; its a continuousrim diamond blade. We also used the Montolit CGX115.We normally propose looking to be as nontoxic as viable when reducing tile, and certainly one of thebest purchases that you would be able to make is a silica dirt respirator. That is the Sundtrm silica dustrespirator. Weve been making use of this for a even as now. We got it on Amazon for roughly $50,and they work really good. Notice the shim between that tile and themain bathe wall tile.So thats a sixteenth inch enlargement and contraction joint.So now we aligned our laser stage to be plumb with the right aspect of that first tile, andthat allowed us to set these tiles easily and quickly on the second row.Now, were getting the mark for around the mixing valve, and had been utilising the anglegrinder and diamond blade to make this cut. Again, be very careful. Wear the entire safetygear for this. But having a just right attitude grinder and a excellent diamond blade will aid you outtremendously. Now, had been also taking our time with thisbecause you need this tile to suit as closely as feasible to the mixing valve. On this case,were reducing these tiles such that theyre about 1/sixteen of an inch far from that Grohemixing valve. And the intent why is because you need the escutcheon to duvet up the gapbetween the tile and mixing valve.So its not a bad ideaif you didntcut very well around right here and whether you will have to make sure to reduce slightly bit closerjustto get your escutcheon plate on right here and check out to evaluate whether its going to quilt.And Im very close over right here. I obtained a little bit bit an excessive amount of of a reduce over here, so Imactually going to take this off and re-reduce this.If youre going to be grinding down ceramic of porcelain tile, we enormously advocate MontolitsSTL diamond blade.This is diamonds on all sides of the blade, and itll spin ontoa 5/eight arbor on an angle grinder. As you will discover, the STL is satisfactory at grindingdown ceramic or porcelain tile. Im doing it to inside a fraction of an inch.Now, we received lucky here, and we were simply in a position to make just a little square reduce in our subwaytile with the attitude grinder. Again, if you happen to have to make a hole in the centerof the tile, you can use a diamond gap noticed. However in this case, we simply wanted to make alittle rectangular reduce, and the escutcheon for that shower arm will absolutely cover that.One among our favourite diamond gap saws is the Mondrillo Wave from Montolit. The motive whywe like this is on account that of its endurance; it lasts an extended, long time.This hole sawwill also work with an perspective grinder with the 5/eight arbor. Without difficulty just screw it ontothe arbor like so. So right here had been just preserving our expansionand contraction joint between the ceiling and the last row of tile. We received fortunate; therewas most effective about 1/sixteen to 1/8 of an inch. And once more, good be covering that joint witha siliconized acrylic latex sealant. Provide us a thumbs up if you happen to just like the recommendations inthis video. Additionally, have been going to place hyperlinks to all of the instruments that we used down in thedescription. So that means, if you wish to check them out, you can do that. Additionally, in the event you haveyour own tool suggestion, please add that down within the feedback given that maybe we shouldbe making a video about anything that we dont learn about.So thanks for gazing this tutorial, and good without doubt see you in the subsequent one.Take care!

How to Wire an Elecrical Outlet (Important Tips) — by Home Repair Tutor

Howdy, every body! In these days Im going to show you wire an electricaloutlet or install an electrical outlet. This is for my buddy, Denise, and my buddy,Heather. They just lately asked me to do this tutorial. So guess what, right here it’s. So Ive bought a precise shock for you atthe finish. Keep tuned, and i’m hoping you enjoy this. So lets jump into it. Seize yourself a circuit analyzer or a receptacleanalyzer like this one right here on account that it will let you know whether or not or no longer your outlet is wiredthe correct way. So plug it into the outlet, and look at thetwo lights which are yellow. That shows that it’s correctly wired adequately. Then go forward and turn the electric off atthe panel of fuse box.Snatch yourself your non-contact voltage sensor. Double-examine the electrical is off. And you will see that how this outlet is wiggling. Its a no-no. And Im going to show howto repair that next. So that you can take the outlet duvet off. And you see how the outlet strikes back andforth? Grab yourself or exit and buy some of theseplastic inserts, these plastic spacers. That you would be able to fold them over themselves, and thenput them down over the screws on the highest and the bottom of your outlet screws that attachthe outlet to the electrical box. And what thatll do is provide a spacerso that the outlet is not going to wiggle. On this case, the field wiggles slightly bit. Now when you’ve got an outlet that has the tabspainted over, you could ranking the tabs with a utility knife. That approach, the outlet will not tear the paintoff the wall. Again, double-investigate that the electric is offwith the voltage tester.Pull the outlet out together with your hands usingthe tabs. Then as you will see that right here, I want to exhibit youthe insulation is stripped off too much from these wires. The insulation, when its stripped off toomuch, it exposes an excessive amount of copper, and the copper wire could touch the electrical box,developing an electrical situation. All proper. So what you need to do first is unwire thehotwires. Again, here I desired to show you anything. The wire loop isnt competently looped, andthats harmful on the grounds that the hotwire couldve came off the terminal screw. Then undo the terminal screws that maintain thewhite neutral wires onto the retailers. There you go. And then the last factor you want to do isunwire the bottom wire. Once more, just counter-clockwise, flip that screw,and then pull the ground wire off the outlet. The next move is to decide upon the correct kindof outlet.So in this case, i have a 15A outlet. Im going to switch it with, you guessedit, a 15A outlet. I selected to get a pass & Seymour 15A tamper-resistantoutlet. And this present day, you must constantly purchase a tamper-resistantoutlet, specially when you have kids. And a variety of neighborhood codes require it. So make certain you assess your neighborhood code. Right here you go. Heres the outlet. There are the brass screws. Heres the back of the outlet the place youcan push the wires into it. And then you’ve gotten your silver screws for yourneutral wires. And then your green floor screw.Now in this case, I wanted to exhibit you theresa little strip gage on the part of the outlet. This is really handy seeing that what you cando is put your wires up in opposition to that strip gage, and which you can reduce them to size or youcan strip the insulation off in step with the gage. While you do this for one wire, that you can simplyjust put the wire up against all the other ones and strip off the appropriate amountof insulation.So as you can see here, there you go. My impartial wire is appropriately sized, andthen I just cut each my hotwires to the identical measurement as my impartial wire. I desired to exhibit you this. Throughout the electrical box, you have got your groundwires. They will have to all be pigtailed collectively andthen have one more wire popping out of that pigtail.So there you go. Theres the wire nut, and theres thepigtail. Take some emery material and rub all of the barecopper wires with the emery cloth. That method that you may be particular that youregoing to get first-class electrical contact with the naked copper wires, and that youre goingto have a particularly excellent contact together with your outlet. So wire up the bottom wire first to the greenterminal screw. Be certain its looped round clockwise. Then tighten down that inexperienced terminal screw. The subsequent wires that I prefer to wire up arethe impartial wires, and they go together with the silver terminal screws. So loosen the terminal screws through turning themcounter-clockwise. And in this case, for this pass & Seymouroutlet, I simply pushed the wires into the slots on the back.And that i keep the wires down with one hand whileI tighten down the silver terminal screws with my screwdriver. Be certain those terminal screws are quite,rather tight if youre now not going to loop them around the terminal screws, okay? You will find theres barely any copper wireshowing. I do this specific same factor for the black hotwires. They go along with the brass screws. So push them into the again of the outlet,after which tighten down the brass screws. All proper. Make certain again those terminal screws aresuper, tremendous tight with your screwdriver. Then the last thing that I dowell, almostthe last thingis I take my vacuum, and i suck up any of the debris thats in theelectrical box just to make certain that its riskless. Push all the wires into the box. Plug your receptacle analyzer into the outlet. Flip the power on. Be carefuldo no longer touch naked wires. And double-determine that your shops wiredcorrectly. On this case, it’s.Its indicated through the 2 yellow lights. Screw the electrical outlet to the electricalbox with the two screws that got here with the outlets. There you go. The outlet doesnt move. And then that you may put the duvet plate on. Do not over-tighten the screw to the coverplate due to the fact the quilt plate will ruin. There you go. Thats how you put in an electrical outlet. Really simple. Comply with all the basic guidelines that i have in thistutorial, and you will have to be good to head. So heres the surprise. Head on over to home restore Tutor and theresgoing to be a giveaway regarding this video.So head on over to HomeRepairTutor.Com. Investigate out the post, the tutorial associatedwith this video, and youll see what that shock is. So i hope that you liked the video. Which you can continuously subscribe to the home RepairTutor YouTube channel. And should you dont intellect, when you go overto HomeRepairTutor.Com, signal up for the e-mail e-newsletter due to the fact that manner, you wont missout on all my hints and giveaways that i’ve for this yr. So investigate it out. Take care, and sick speak to you soon..

How to Paint a Room FAST | Paint Hacks for Homeowners

So today have been going to give you seven paintinghacks on how you can make your portray experience more effective and faster considering, letsface it, its anything thats absolutely wanted in each house renovation. Whether or not youregoing to be selling your property or youre simply reworking your house, portray is alwaysa part of it. So I wish to give you seven suggestions on make that simpler for you.So tip #1 is for repairing any holes or nail holes from snap shots that you’re taking off thewall to use DAP DryDex. I quite love making use of this product when you consider that it’s quick drying.Andthe biggest factor about it is that it doesnt minimize or crack. So in most cases on a normalinstallation, you ought to do two coats of drywall mud to fill any form of hole. Thiswill do away with that. It takes one time. And the first-class factor about it is it goes on red.And then as soon as its dry, it turns to a natural timber-filler seem, so you understand when youreready to go and begin priming. But its best considering you dont ought to work twice theamount of time to fill these holes.That you can just putty it in, after which youll be ableto paint thisll flip to truly, its starting to show already. Itll turnto like a wooden-filler seem, and then you can just go ahead and high that and be readyto paint. So tip #2 is to use a enormous 18-inch nap rollerto roll your partitions and ceilings. This is on the whole going to be the object that saves you the mosttime due to the fact, often, normal roller pads are handiest 9 inches. So when you’ve got twice thatdistance, youre going to be reducing down the period of time it takes to apply thatpaint. Now, this is one thats made through Purdy. I bought an extension pole as good with it.This may go up to about eight feet. So this will make it less complicated to roll big rooms like thisthat have cathedral ceilings. However applying the paint with a long roller like this isgoing to save you truly half of the period of time with the commonplace roller.So tip #three is to use the appropriate nap dimension for the sort of walls that youre painting.So most flat, delicate drywall walls, you need to use a 3/8-inch nap roller pad.And thenfor something textured, you need to move to a -inch nap roller size. Essential purpose for thisis that if you use too large of a nap curler, youre going to apply too much paint tothe wall, and its going to take longer for you to sincerely soft out that paintsurface. But in case you have a textured ceiling for say, the extra nap, the more paint youreable to apply, and its going to be less complicated to fill in all the cracks and divots thatthe textured surface has.So continually use a -inch nap curler for textured ceilings,and 3/8-inch nap roller pads for tender partitions. So tip #4, I must give a large shout outto Idaho Painter who is right here on YouTube, hes the one who gave me the recommendation on this one,and that’s to make use of a corner roller pad. And in actual fact all it is is a usual curler pad,however it has the brink thats utterly included by using the fleece of the roller. Youre ableto cut in and roll all whilst having a roller pad that has the facet covered likethis. Probably, you continuously ought to paintbrush the corners of a ceiling, however this eliminatesthat step.So something you can save a few minutes doing is good worth it. So thanks,Idaho Painter, for this tip. And as you could see, it will get the entire way into that nook.Its definitely smearing on the facet wall, but were going to be slicing in the wallswith the commonplace paint, but this eliminates the step.So tip #5 is to make use of drywall stilts to reduce in the ceiling of the wall color that youreusing.Being able to stroll on stilts makes it rather a lot easier to stroll around the room andbe more efficient along with your portray, instead than getting up on a ladder and relocating every4 ft with that ladder, takes up time. Walking on stilts will allow you to do that all onbasically one movement and speed up the time of portray.So were going to position some stilts on. That is going to really support out with slicing inthe ceiling and now not having to use a ladder, practically, to do your entire chopping in. Soreally, you just have two straps on them to your ft. Typically, I in finding that the biggerboots are simpler to put on when youre doing this than making use of tennis sneakers. You realize, itjust sort of holds on there higher. Any time i use tennis shoes, its quite rough toget the whole thing anchored down safely. So I really have a strap thats missing onthe back, however All proper. So your stilts rather permit you to get upas if youre just standing and be competent to cut in. Fairly makes it lots less complicated thanmoving a ladder round.Its a lot less difficult for your neck, too. Youre now not watching upas much. So the style of brushes i like to use is primarilyPurdy brushes with the angled kind where it has like a slant on the brush. And i typicallyuse a few 2 -inch brush. I believe that offers the easiest amount of insurance policy and abilityto reduce in. However the angled a part of this brush enables me to get correct into this corner andjust do full swoops. I suppose the true key of creating straightlines with a paintbrush is using motions which can be steady rather than dabbing back andforth. If which you could get like a half an palms width stretch all on one swoop, itll keepthat line lots straighter rather than simply dabbing little pieces at a time. If youredabbing matters, it just makes it more difficult to preserve best, straight strains. So try to keepyour motions continuous with brushing, and thatll enable you to cut in loads easier.Tip #6 is to make use of an oil-established primer for any water stains or stains which have come throughthe drywall.Using an oil-headquartered primer will make certain that its blocked and that you just donthave to come back again later to address any of the disorders. The last factor you want to dois use a water-established sealer that ends up nonetheless bleeding through, and also you ought to come backand repaint. So its going to make things much more efficient for you should you startout with an oil-established high blocker.We honestly notably are utilising the Sherwin WilliamsProBlock Primer, and its an interior oil-headquartered primer.Ok, so have been going to identify-top these water stains with the ProBlocker. Its basicallyan oil-founded primer. Rather, the oil-situated primer goes to be your fine wager to blockout any stains. In my intellect, I dont see any reason to check out to do an acrylic water-centered.Just go with the oil-established; you realize its going to quilt. So I invariably use a disposalmini-brush for this in view that I dont wish to waste a entire curler.However obviously withoil-centered, you dont need to use your pleasant paintbrush with it or youre going to haveto relatively clean it up with acetone or mineral spirits.So that you could see how this turns to a normal colour now, type of like a wood-toned color.So now its competent to go ahead and prime. So a different excellent location to make use of this oil-basedprimer are the knots on your wooden. You’ll discover how this is bleeding by way of. So if youused oil-based on that, thatll preserve that stain from popping by way of.So tip #7 is going to avoid wasting you a huge period of time, and its continually somethingthat probably takes more time than portray all the partitions, and that’s to paint all yourdoors. You always often have to paint your doorways whilst you paint all the walls. In any other case,its going to appear unfinished. They got here out with a exceptional product that I believe is goingto be relatively effective on your time.Its known as the Stack Rack. And this package allowsyou to paint four doors, either side, directly very nearly. Youre quite chopping downthe savings, like pretty much paint all of the doors in a condominium in at some point versus stackingthem and leaning them against the wall and taking a number of days to do. So use the StackRack the paint your doorways.And heres a bonus tip for you: use a carpetshield plastic movie adhesive plastic to quilt any carpet on your discipline. No matter how safeor careful you might be, the probability of you spilling paint on the carpet could be very excessive,so use a plastic carpet shield to shield your carpet.Whats up, in case you like these recommendations, please supply us a thumbs up. It helps different persons out. Sogive us a thumbs up..

How to Caulk a Bathtub (Beautiful Results) — by Home Repair Tutor

Good day, there! Do you have got to understand how to caulk a bathtubor maybe caulk a bathe? Maybe the sealant between your bath and thesurround has received moldy or its peeling off or its simply watching nasty. If thats the case, you could need to watchthis video due to the fact I really suppose it would aid you out. Its bought a number of quality tips in it, especiallyif you don’t want to come back back in just a few quick weeks and have to redo your job. So lets dive into the main points. Again, I think this would rather, really helpyou out. Yikes! This caulk, it appears terrible.So its effervescent, its peeling off. It wants to be eliminated. Its isolating from the bathtub and the tubsurround. And the first instrument that i like to use is astraight razor like this one. I seem to groove out the bottom of the caulkand the top of the caulk after which peel it off the tub surround. One enormous tip here: You are not able to caulk over existingcaulk, so you need to dispose of any of the ancient material. A further software that you should use is a 5-in-1painters device, and i love this software, mainly if youve obtained caulk thats deep down inbetween the bathtub surround and the bathtub. And once more, you wish to have to groove out the bottomportion that buts up towards the bathtub, after which groove out the highest element that butsup against the tub encompass. That method youll be competent to pry the historical caulkoff and pull it together with your arms.So that you must eliminate all of the ancient material. Its an absolute need to. In any other case, your new caulk won’t stick tothe bathtub and tub encompass. So again, you wish to have to groove the bottom out. Groove the highest out. And then when you do this, youll be ableto dispose of most of the historic fabric. Now heres a different huge tip: make certain youremove the entire historic caulk from the bathtub. So its going to fall into the bathtub. And then use a grouting sponge to abrade thetub surround and the tub itself. I love grouting sponges thus becausetheyre simply mildly abrasive.Then take a rag and wipe off the skin thebest you could, and make sure that its dry. Now should you notice any historical caulk, you haveto remove it, and you need to be very diligent about this. The surface must be easy and dry for thenew caulk to be adhered. Heres a large tip: replenish the bathtub withwater. First, plug it up. So plug it up on the overflow tube, and allowthe water to fill the bathtub such that the water level is right below the overflow pipe.The intent why you wish to have to do that is so thatyou widen the gap between the tub and the tub surround. Its obviously principal that you simply fill upyour tub with water earlier than you follow the brand new caulk because what that’s going to do isweigh down the bathtub so that theres a greater hole between the bathtub and the surroundor the tile. And that way, youll be ready to position thatbead of caulk in that better gap.And when you liberate the water, it will squeezethe fabric in between the tub and the surround and create a fairly, quite good seal. And the form of caulk that i admire to make use of isDap three.0 for the reason that its especially for toilet plumbing. Its a hundred% water-proof. Its water-resistant in half-hour. Its mildew and mildew resistant. And it has Microban in it. So Microban will help avert mildew and mildewgrowth on a new caulk. Now, how do you determine find out how to reduce theend of the caulking tube? It is a query that I get so much. So what I care to do is situation the tip of thecaulking tube in between the better hole that you simply simply created between the tub and the tubsurround. After which mark the end of the caulking tubewith a pencilthis pencil mark is particularly tough to see herebut what I cherish to do iscut just a little bit past that pencil mark both with a caulking gun or a pair of scissors. But it doesn’t matter what you do, make certain you cutthe end of the caulking tube at a 45 angle considering that youre going to use the end of thetube to mould the caulk around the bath.So what I like to do is begin on the edgeof the bathtub and the surround and work my approach inward. And then, for awkward-formed tub/tub surrounds,I wish to dip my finger within the water thats in the bathtub and then soft out the caulk untilyou get to an additional factor whereby its a longer run. So as you will see that right here, Im slowly pressingdown on my caulking gun. And due to the fact theres water within the bathtub, itmakes it a little bit awkward. However what I love to do is discontinue within the middleof the tub surround and then go at the subsequent nook after which work my method again inward usingthe caulk gun.Once more, gentle out the caulk via dipping yourfinger in the water and then moving in a single direction. So left to right or correct to left. But admittedly, it can be somewhat bit trickytrying to make use of your caulking gun round a tub filled with water. So simply watch out. Relocating in one path ensures that the caulkI being pressed into the gap and youre not removing it by means of relocating within the different path.However if you become aware of that there are little tinyholes or air bubbles, that you may return and use the caulking gun so as to add extra caulk. Now what I love to do is, as soon as Im donewith the caulking process and that i soft it out with my finger, i’m going back over the surfacewith a moist towel, like Im doing here. And this just works for me. It permits me to mildew the caulk and reallyget a fine, smooth and even seem with out it being messy. So thats what you see right here. Its a high-quality, soft, even look. And youll be left with a rather awesomejob. So by using filling up the bathtub and then releasingthe water from it, what youre going to do now’s compress the caulk up against thetub and bathtub surround and make a really perfect tight water seal. Good there you go. Thats how you caulk a bath or re-caulka bathtub or shower. I suppose the hints are fairly timeless and couldhelp you out with your possess tub job or your own bathe job.And if you happen to think this video would help somebodyelse out, go forward and click on on the thumbs up button. That means theyll be in a position to look it overon YouTube. And if you happen to havent already achieved so, maybeyou must additionally click on on the subscribe button whilst youre at it when you consider that you wont missone of my movies.They arrive out every single Friday. And if youre a subscriber, youll definitelybe in a position to peer it on Friday, all right? So thanks for becoming a member of me in these days. I relatively respect your time. Again, i like DIY. So probably these movies will aid you out. And if youve bought a proposal or a remark,depart it in the comments part. All proper, take care. Ill see you within the subsequent video..

How to Fix a Large Hole in the Wall — by Home Repair Tutor

Hi, everyone! This videos going to showyou how one can repair a tremendous gap in the wall. So if youve got a gigantic entire thats maybemore than 6×6, might be its from an ancient self-importance that you needed to cast off, or somebodydecided to play Mike Tysons Punch Out with the wall, this videos going to helpyou out with that specific obstacle. So hold on tight. Ive got a number of quality suggestions foryou.I suppose youre going to like them. Lets get to it.So heres the large hole on the wall that I ought to repair. I honestly created this becauseI needed to install a pedestal sink. And i must put some again-blocking off in utilizing plywood.Im marking the depth of the plywood on the studs considering that I have got to put some blockingin thats set again a bit of bit so i will be able to put that piece of blockading within the stud bay.Im displaying you the decking screws Im going to be making use of to patch the blocking off andthe drill bit.The drill bit is in regards to the same width as the deck screw. So Im attachingthose portions of block using my influence driver. And if you would like an extension bit, you cando that, principally if youre in a good area like me.So I needed to place those portions of blocking back. Set them again about and in addition,due to the fact of the tight house, I needed to angleyou may just need to do that, tooI needed to anglethe decking screws in order that I could attain them inside the stud bay.So as you will find right here, Ive received my back-block in at plywood, that is, and just attachingit to the portions of scrap timber that I put on the studs making use of those deck screws.So for significant holes, what you want to do is find the largest opening.So on this case,its correct right here. Its about 9 tall. And the opening, it’s about 27 large. Sotake that dimension and cut your self a piece of scrap drywall. And then, place that drywallon your wall, and trace the define on the grounds that what youre going to do is create a perfectinthis caserectangle, and youre going to location that piece of drywall in that house.You should use a drywall knife like Im doing here, or a drywall saw, to saw out the existingdrywall. Or that you may ranking along the studs. So you need to use a utility knife to score piecesof drywall which can be instantly overtop the studs. And which you can take your drywall knifeor saw,I must sayand reduce out the remaining component to the drywall.Whilst you ranking along the studs, its pretty cool for the reason that all you have got to do is snap backthe drywall, and it comes proper off, as you will discover right here. Now it would be a pain if somebodyglued the drywall to the stud.So be certain, too, that you are taking out any screws or any nailsfrom the studs considering that thats regularly going to affect your new drywall piece. And thenmark your studs on the existing drywall, and put an X anyplace where you dont want todrill. On this case, theres a pipe within the wall, and i dont wish to put a screw inthat. So I shouldve completed this previously, butyou also need to put tape overtop any shutoff valves. So I with no trouble put painters tape overthe shutoff valves. The P-entice Im no longer so worried about given that i will constantly removethat.Put cardboard on the ground. Youre going to preserve the ground from any drywalldust. Then youre going to be utilizing coarse-threaded drywall screws. On this case, I selected 15/8drywall screws, and youre going to use a dimpler to patch the screws by way of thenew drywall piece and into the studs. I put the dimpler into my normal drill.Nothing unique right here.And what I did was once connect the screws into the stud areas. And asyou can see right here, it creates a superb dimple. No paper tears, which you dont need.So heres the piece of drywall. The next step is to apply joint compound and tape.Now i like utilising environment-style joint compound. This is convenient Sand 20 light-weight environment-TypeCompound. It units up in 20 minutes, so you got to be quick. Then i use a mixing paddlefrom the kitchen.Dont worry, I requested my spouse if I could use this further one, a puttyknife, and a dust pan are all you need. Make sure that mud pan is super smooth, though.The blending paddle isnt easy, however its hard to get these as smooth as possible. Sodo your great to scrub it for those who use it. After which ensure you put on a respirator. Youdont need to inhale any drywall dust or joint compound dirt.Combine up the joint compound using the blending paddle to your drill. Dont mix it up tooquickly; youll create air pockets within the mud. Thats not excellent. I like my mud thatjust barely fall off the putty knife or joint compound knife. Thats the correct consistency.Grab a satisfactory, clean 6 joint compound knife. You want it to be easy so that it doesntput any debris to your joint compound. Then practice a three/sixteen to layer of joint compoundover the butt joints, the gap between the ancient drywall and the brand new drywall.Then embedthe paper tape. The paper tape will make for a exceptional, smooth, soft finish. So what youwant to do is work out any wrinkles utilizing the 6 joint compound knife. So practice anice, healthy layer of joint compound over each horizontal butt joint, embed your tape.And then what you wish to have to dowhen I say smoothen out, I imply gentle out the bottomsection of the joint compound with joint tape, after which the highest portion of the tape usingyour knife. And then run your knife down the core of the tape to smooth out any remainingwrinkles or pockets beneath it. Allow the horizontal sections to dry. Thenwhat you can do is measure out the amount of tape that youre going to be in thiscase, I need to say 6. Practice a first-class, healthful dose of joint compound. Embed your tape. Prettymuch the same waystarting in the middle and working your means out by way of the edgesas you did for the horizontal portions of tape. So again, exceptional, healthy 3/sixteen to amountof joint compound over that joint.Practice the tape, after which tender out the tape using yourjoint compound knife. Pretty simple stuff. Let that dry after which that you would be able to come back anddo a 2d coating of joint compound. Heres the second layer of joint compound.Again, I just like the joint compound to only barely dangle off the knife. Im utilising a 6 jointcompound knife to use a layer of joint compound. Its 6 above and under the piece of tapethat I embedded into the drywall. So for a whole amount of about 12 of joint compound.So 6 on either side of the tape. So you will see that right here, again, its a exceptional,healthful layer of joint compound, three/sixteen to about . And Im going to take a 10joint compound knife and delicate out each sections, so the highest and the backside. And then Imgoing to do the equal thing for the backside component to tape.Now I wish to exhibit you a mistake that I made. I took off too much joint compound; you canstill see the tape on the bottom and somewhat bit on the highest. You dont wish to do this.It is a tight house, and that i was hurting in view that I was once on my knees the entire time.But youllwant to taper the perimeters, feather the perimeters out utilising that 10 knife.And heres what it looked like. Once more, too much joint compound is taken off the tapeitself. You’ll find the tape; thats now not just right. However I wanted to apply a third coatinganyway and certainly a fourth and fifth considering I wanted to delicate out the whole wall.So that you may take off any excessive and low spots utilising the 6 knife. Simply scrape it alongthe wall.Then i love utilizing a sanding sponge, a medium grit sanding sponge, to feather outthe edges. So you want a round motion utilizing that sponge. Take out any excessive and low spots.Consider round for them, and then place a degree on the wall and investigate to see if you happen to missedanything and if you happen to have to feather out even more.So like I mentioned, I needed to apply a fourth and fifth coat given that this wall was in badshape. So Im simply making use of a best thin epidermis coat over the complete wall. Examine it out.This is what the wall looks like. I nonetheless need to knock down some excessive spots and sanda bit extra. However total, it appears pretty darn excellent. I feel this is a high-quality approach you mightwant to take a look at out. Good there you go. Thats how you fix alarge whole within the wall. I hope that you liked this video. If you did, go forward and subscribeto the dwelling restore Tutor YouTube channel.That method you wont omit any movies thatcome out in the future. And wager what, at the same time youre at it, leap on over to HomeRepairTutor.Com,signal up for the email newsletter on the grounds that that way you wont pass over any of my tutorials.And you understand what, we do weekly giveaways. So whether or not its a vigour tool or possibly alittle instrument that you just want for electrical work, often I provide away these things, and Iwouldnt want you to overlook out on that. So its pretty coolThanks for observing the video at present. Take care, and unwell talk to you quickly..

How to Install a Garage Organization Wall System

Good day, pals. Its Jeff with house RepairTutor. And today Im going to share with you the best way to organize your storage and make itinto a dream house. And have been going to be doing that utilising the Kobalt garage OrganizationalWall Mount method, okay? So had been going to get all of your litter off the ground, outof the way, onto the wall, and before you comprehend it, your garage is going to seem likea dream. So lets get began. Ive acquired a ton of hints for you.All proper, neighbors. So that is what the finished product appears like. You might have your okay Rail installedon the wall. Then you’ve your whole special add-ons on that. So have been going to getyou to that point.And the first thing that you simply ought to do is investigate the design ofthe ok Rail. While you get a record, what you have got to buyis the Kobalt k Rail. Now it comes with 50 sections. Youll must verify how muchK Rail you want. But just about, that is what you hang for your wall with screws. Andthen youll put hangers on it like so, k? So you cling the hangers on the okay Rail.Now if youre like me and also you must screw into cinder block, youre going to haveto purchase Tapcon concrete anchors or some type of concrete anchor. The opposite instruments that youshould use are a bevel, a measuring tape <duh>, some earmuffs, a hammer drill if you happen to needto go into cinder block or just a commonplace drill if youre going into wooden, a laserlevel if in case you have one but you dont necessarily need it, a combination square, and a Sharpiemarker.Thats typically the whole lot that you simply ought to install the k Rail.Youre going to need to mount the k Rail on the wall, ok? So as a way to do this,the first step is to drill holes into it. Im going to drill two holes on every edgeof the ok Rail 2 in. The next two holes are going to be 25 in from the brink sincethe k Rails a total of fifty lengthy. So one here and one right here.Role your ok Rail on the wall, k? And use both a laser level, like Im usinghere, or a typical level like this one, k? Just make sure <whoa!> that the KRail is where you wish to have it to be.Use your degree, ok? Make sure that the bubble islevel. And that you could draw a line throughout your wall. Once you have that line based,find the center high gap and make a mark in your line that corresponds with that gap.The next move is to take your Tapcon drill bit and set it in order that its longerthan the depth of your Tapcon screw. Set your hammer drill to the hammer drill setting.Stick it on the mortar joint over your cinder block and drill away. Put your Tapcon screwin the core gap that you simply made within the okay Rail. Dril by way of probably about . Setit within the gap that you made within the cinder block, again making certain that this is degree,all right? Both use your laser stage or set your level on prime.Im utilising a pressure right here. Ratchet down on the Tapcon screw. The subsequent thing that you simply do is use your hammerdrill to drill a gap into the cinder block in the bottom gap of your ok Rail. Take asecond Tapcon, slide it into the gap that you just made, and ratchet down on in. Andyou do the equal approach for the holes on the ends of the ok Rail.The hooks are particularly easy to put in on the ok Rail method. So what you do is you lookfor the J form, hold it over the ok Rail, and snap it into position. And then in case you wantto, that you may transfer it from side to side. Simply slide it from side to side.If you wish to take an accessory off you can either bend it up and out or slide it offthe finish.Simply that handy. All correct every person, thats how you do it.Thats the way you prepare your garage and make it look amazing. I will be able to tell you thatmy wife is tremendous blissful. And there shes standing right at the back of the digicam. So I cansee her smile, right? So in case you have any questions, let me recognize.Identity be more than completely satisfied to support you out with your own task.And undoubtedly visit HomeRepairTutor.Com,sign up for my email newsletter considering the fact that youre going to get a ton of extremely good guidelines. Andyou can go there and consider more movies. So except subsequent time, take care. Have a greatday! [Outtakes]simply to galvanize upon my spouse how robust these are, check this out! Relatively robust! Ow! Ipulled a hammie! Just a little bit.

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