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How to Install Bathroom Light Fixtures (Lowe’s Lighting)

Hey, friends! It’s Jeff with Home Repair Tutor, and todayI’m going to show with you how to change out your bathroom ignite fixtures. Hey, we all have been in that situation whereyou have an aged light-colored. You precisely want to change it out into somethingmodern and new. And I’m going to be using the Portfolio lineof light illuminate at Lowe’s. And what I like about that is that you canpick out the lighting saloon and then you can add your own sconce to ita sconce of yourchoice , not the choice of the manufacturer.So I picked out these sconces; I’m going toadd them to this illuminated; and before you know it, I’m going to transform this illuminate fixturein my shower into something that’s cool and modern instead of something that lookslike it’s from 1988. So let’s get started … Before you get started, turn the light offat the circuit breaker. It’s as simple as that. After turning off the capability, remove the sconce.In this particular case, you have to removethe light bulb first then you simply unscrew the sconce. The next pace is to remove the mounting nutsthat accommodate the glowing in place. Here’s a handydandy tip: Use a utility knifeto score around the light. When you score the coat around the lightprevents the depict from being pulled off the wall.Simply pull the light off the wall. Then use a voltage detector to check for electricity. Next, unscrew the mounting bracket from thejunction box. Pull the mounting bracket out. And at this top, you certainly want totake a picture of your wiring. And observe we have one neutral cable which iswhite, and one pitch-black wear which is the power coming into the junction box. Unwire the hotwires which are black. Then unwire the neutral wire which is white. Now you can remove the entire bathroom lightfixture. The next stair is to add the mounting bracketto the junction box. But before you do that , notice the orientationon the light fixture where the bars are going to be.And they’re horizontal. They’re straight up and down. So one at the top and one at the bottom. That means that you’re going to have to mountthe mounting bracket with that same direction. And in this case, the government has these little mountingscrews already in there. So these attaching nails “ve got to be” mountedvertically. So I line up my mount bracket like so withthe holes that are in the junction box. Take the two nails that come with the Portfoliolight fixture. Mount the first bolt in placejust a littlebit. And then organize the second one through themounting bracket and into the junction box. You can then tighten these bolts with a screwdriver.The next thing that you want to do is tightenthis nut in the center of the mounting bracket. The reason why you want to do that is becauseit’ll keep this mounting bracket perfectly horizontal and, hence, your flare will stayvertical too. Before you go to wire anything, make surethat these nails are long enough to go through this portion of your light-footed. Watch this. They’re nowhere close. They’re not going to come through that holethishole here. So either I need to modify the mounting bracketor placed a longer nut on herea longer screw on here. My recommendation is this: Before you leavethe store, opening up policy your lighting casket and get a provided of longer screwslonger mounting screwsthatmatch up with the shorter shafts that come with the daybreak fixture. If the long pins are too long, you can makea mark on them with a Sharpie.Then you are eligible to chipped them with combining strippers. Now it’s time to wire the ignite. Add the teach cable from the light-headed to thegreen ground nail on the mounting bracket. Wire the two neutral wires togetherso thetwo white-hot cables together. Genuinely tighten that cable nut. And eventually wire the two hotwires togetherwith the second wire nut. Push the cables to the back of the junctionbox. Position the light on the two shafts thatyou have sticking out of the bracket. And eventually, add the nuts that hold the lightin place. The Portfolio daylights also come with thesedecorative mission caps that you are eligible to shafted in place. Slide your sconce up onto the light. Use the supplied nuts to secure the sconceto the light. All title! That’s how you get it on. That’s how you swap out an old bathroom lightfixture for a brand-new shower illuminate fixture. Super easy, right? And I only needed three tools. A combination stripper, a screwdriver, anda voltage detector. Make sure you use that voltage detector’ causeyou don’t want to look like Doc Brown at the beginnings of your assignment( That’s a Backto the Future comment right there ). And throw in some LED light bulbs so thatyou’re saving money over go. If you like this video and you think it’llhelp out someone else, give me a thumbs up over on YouTube so that other people can seethis, and it’ll help them get started on their own bathroom sit projection. One more thing: Visit HomeRepairTutor.com; sign up for my email newsletter because you’re going to get a ton of great home improvementtips that’ll save you term and coin. Until next time, have a great day, and I’llsee you soon !.

How to Build a Curbless Shower (Part 2: Waterproof Shower Walls) — by Home Repair Tutor

In todays video were going to show youhow to waterproof the walls of a curbless shower environment. Now, what made this particularlychallenging was the fact that theres a space inside the shower. But we exploited HYDROBAN Board to simplify this process and see the walls 100% waterproof.Were going to install HYDRO BAN Board as our backer board, which is essentially a waterproofboard made by Laticrete.One of the great aspects about this is, first off, itsalready waterproof. So, you install this, you just have to address where you put yourscrews and then your seams and everythings waterproof. But the other nice thing is thatthe entire core of this is waterproof as well. So if you nick the surface of this, yourenot going to damage the stability of the waterproofing. So just as long as you dont go all theway through the members of the commission, youre still going to be safe. To me, that really affords a lotof extra confidence in it. A batch of different situations where you can actually puncturethis membrane and, you are well aware, expressed concerns about it leaking.Whereas being able to knowthat as long as you dont go all the way through the members of the commission, then its still goingto be waterproof. So emphatically a fast, easy method to install.But the first thing you want to do, again, is the VIM pan. You time employed a charitable beadof the HYDRO BAN sealant, and it is basically precisely to adhere that card to the pan. Andyou simply need to use the clamps that are provided with the HYDRO BAN Board. You time want tosmooth this. Smooth it out. For such projects, the timber ornaments were 16 on middle, and we arranged a bolt every 12 on core along the stud to support the board.Instead of squander all this extra material here, have effectively just going to go aheadand install this on the top and the fill in the sides because that will basically takeup a entire sheet, there are still really no reason to cut that much.So were just going to measure to the top of our framing now from underneath.Thats1 6 7/8. Its the same, Im pretty sure, 16 7/8. Okay, and then you just take theutility knife and cut this. As you can see, its very easy to cut throughthe HYDRO BAN Board. You exactly need a utility knife, and thats pretty much it. Clearly, you can also an oscillating multitool, but its not necessary unless you want to dosome refined slice. For instance, now on this board, were going to be using an oscillatingmultitool to attain the HYDRO BAN Board even with the framing.Okay, so in order to meet two timbers together like that, you want to made a bead of the sealantto the top and foot. Again, its very important to use the sealantbetween neighboring HYDRO BAN Boards and to smooth that out and to use the right type of screws.You cant exactly use any screw.Here were using out multitool again to refine our cutup against the window framing. That facilitates out a lot.Before any of this cools along the bottom here, its not a bad notion to feather thisout. Smoothing out the HYDRO BAN sealant is importantbecause it can is in conflict with your tile naming. Now were just snapping a chalk word andcutting the members of the commission to size exploiting a practicality knife. We precisely need to fill in this one lastslot on the righthand side of this opening wall.Using HYDRO BAN Board obliges waterproofing around the window so much easier versus cementboard. Again, where the board fills the board, puta pendant. So again, were just applying that sealant.Were putting our card in place and using the title clamps that should be bought alongwith the HYDRO BAN Board.So now were just adding a board to thetop of the last board that we lay, and were trimming it to size to be flush withthe window sill. So again, you can see how easy it is to use the HYDRO BAN Board to waterproofaround the window in the shower. This isnt ideal. You shouldnt genuinely have a showerwith a opening in it, but nonetheless, sometimes you cant do anything about that, and itsjust part of the home.So having HYDRO BAN Board realizes it so much simpler.Here were just getting our final assessment for the plumbing wall and trimming our boardsto width to fit around the plumbing fixtures. Really get a marking on the hose here. We canjust use a practicality knife to cut a small circle around that, or you can use a paddle fragment too.The neat thing about these thick-witted sud councils, they can easily simply stigmatizing where my valveis and simply make a nice cut are consistent with that. Okay, before you threw this in, only make sureyou get a bead of caulking on your VIM pan and too down on your region here.And I would keep your first sequence of fucks above the floor.You dont want to pinch this all the way down to where this is going to kind of beoff the go. As Steve illustrated, were including the firstset of fucks about 4 above the VIM pan so that the board doesnt bellow inward.And were checking that the board is plumb with our 4 grade, and then adding the screwsper the HYDRO BAN Board attitudes. If you do that, youre going to have a successfulinstallation of the waterproofing cards on the wall.Here were going measurementson the left and the right of the shower pan, and were just cutting a pit into the boardusing a paddle fragment. And that will ensure that our shower appendage hose will fit through thereproperly. So again, were just adding our sealant both on the top of the board and tothe contiguou timbers on the central wall. Were putting our timber in palace and then usingour clamps to get the board nice and redden with the adjacent drywall thats inthis shower. You can see how quickly it is to use the HYDRO BAN Board on the plumbingwall.Here were doing the exact same method onthe wall antonym that. So again, its a very quick installation. And if youre usingthe claim shafts and the claim technique, this is going to be 100% waterproof, and itsgoing to be a particularly, very quick installation for you. The main thing is to remember toalways smooth out the sealant that exudes out between the members of the commission and between the VIM showerpan.Thats really important for your tile setting.Okay, so around this space, obviously a window is not an ideal feature to throw in your shower.Just saying that on the basis that, you know, you got an area where the outside of the windowis created waterproof so water doesnt come in, but a doublehung window was never reallydesigned to keep water out from the inside. So what we do is pretty much do the best thatwe can to waterproof against this, basically eliminating any clevernes for the water to getout into the sill area. Well precisely use a HYDRO BAN Board to go around that and usingthe sealant to go up against the window. Bottom sill in first.So its not too a bad project to sit this in now and just see how level or not levelit is because you really want, when this is sucked down, you miss this to kind of, especiallythe bottom sill, to pitch towards the shower so that any irrigate that collisions this is goingto go into the shower.So precisely made to ensure that your framing is slightly created to slopeinward. If its not, a room that you can address this, which this is, what you cando is use thinset underneath this and slope it towards the shower. But its usuallyideal, if you can help it, to create the framing so that it automatically slopes toward theshower. So situated a dot on your committee, and then wellput a big, nice pellet against this opening and mostly press the board into it to whereits gushing out from that window hole. So you could see that oozing up out of thatwindow sill. Thats what we want. You want to make sure that this is completely watertight to that. Ill go ahead and articulated our two clamps in.So Im simply actually precisely drawing this away from the window because I dont want tosmear up against the window. Then were going to have tile that comes up 3/8, butthis stuff probably wont come off the window very easily. So I kind of press it down. Andif you can, use a factory edge up against the window; its going to be a lot flatterup against the window.If not, just make sure its a neat, straight fringe. So we introduced anice beading against this space again, get down along the basi of your HYDRO BAN Board, andgo up along where the other board fulfills. Smooth out any of your sealant.As you can see here, were addressing the sealant to the window itself, along the bottom, and along the HYDRO BAN Board. Were including our little committee now to the righthand side, were screwing it in place, and were cutting it down consuming our MultiMaster. Thenwere smoothing out any of the sealant that oozes out between the window and the members of the commission; thats really important for your tile setting. So again were just applying the sealantalong the bound to the top of the framing there. Were computing our timber, screwingit in place. And trimming it down with the multitool. So its really important toget these committees even with the contiguou timbers that are around the window.As you can seehere, the next step is to seal all the screws and seams.Okay, so once you get all the board hung, then you need to go back over all your seamsin the regions and the fuckings. So just go ahead and do the recess firstly. Precisely basicallya neat, magnanimous ball facilitating down that corner. All the way down to the bottom. And then youcan use a little corner trowel.I mean you can use a regular putty knife as well on bothsides, but a plastic area trowel certainly helps get everything neat and tighten. And ituses a little less sealant if you were to do it the other way. So, every fucking holepatch over. And then you might kept a beading across your seams.And then you could see how we kind of overcut this defect. Well, were going to make sureits center for one. But you could just easily add a little bit of sealant there andkind of bridge more of that excavation. Okay, then I would go across all of your windowseams as well. As you can see, were requesting a neat beadof the sealant around the perimeter of the window and likewise remove any of the stickersthat are on the board. You dont want to leave this on the board because itll interferewith the tile adjusting. And then find all the screws that are in the HYDRO BAN Board.Also, if you do have any fastens that you had to remove, you want to add sealant around those.So again here, were just working on our window, spawning sure all that sealant is niceand flat against the members of the commission. Same thing with all the sealant thats around the screwsand the pin holes that you missed because the sealant needs to be flat in order foryou to be able to set your tile the right way. The sealant could perhaps interfere withyour tile name, it is therefore actually, really important to have that as flat as possibleand flush with the surface of the board. So pay special attention to all your screws.You dont want to miss those because recollect, any invasion through the HYDRO BAN Boardis a point where it could seep into the stud bay.And around your Grohe flange you can seal to your roughin valve, which is such an awesomecapability with this type of roughin valve.Because what youll do is youll tileeverything and then youll trimmed thus flange off flush with the tile. But being able tocompletely waterproof around this is really nice because most valves youre precisely relyingon that escutcheon plate sitting against the tile. So like were going to be doing subwaytile here, and subway tile has all these different grout joints. So the escutcheon slab neversits nicely against the grout brace. But knowing that this is now 100% waterproof behind there, I know that nothings going to get behind that wall when the irrigate is hitting the backof your shower valve. So certainly a neat feature employing that Grohe system.So an added feature, this is probably overkill in a way, but this is something thats recommendedand not a bad notion to do, is basically all the regions going around the window, weregoing to use some cement timber tape.You know, this is an alkali resistant tape, and basicallyjust reinforce these areas. But since this is a little bit wet, its going to be easyto embed this mesh. So again, you want to use alkali resistanttape. This is the same tape that you would use for cement board. So you can just grabit at your local residence accumulate. And the reason why were putting this over top of the HYDROBAN thats inside the window is for us to give more inflexibility to that area.And alsoto reduce any occasion that there is nothing to going to be expansion and contraction that couldadversely affect the tile rectifying. So Steve will mention his thoughts on this particularstep in the process of waterproofing around the window. You know, its something thatLaticrete does recommend. So at this quality were doing it because of their recommendations.And its actually the sealant that helps that alkali resistant mesh ligament to the HYDRO BANBoard. So the more sealant you have, the more that thats going to bond.So this reces mesh that were putting in this window sill, this is to Laticretesrecommendation to do this. Definitely not a bad mind. Clearly reinforces the corners.Its going to form ensuring that any shrinkage or anything that goes in between the boardsisnt going to create a gap. Overall, its a good project. But putting this reces meshis a real pain. My feeling is that the mesh is a little bit of an overkill, but not abad meaning. But it is a little bit frustrating to get delicately close-fisted to this corner becauseyou really want to have everything neat and tight.You dont want to have a bunch ofbubbles sticking out because its going to make all your tile work harder to get aroundit. So you really want to try to keep everything as close-fisted as possible.So this is kind of another overkill impression now, but youre actually employing exactly resealthis, but were actually going to be arrange a mantle of the mesh waterproofing in the corners.But this will simply be an added seam of shelter. In another video, were going to show youhow to use the mesh that came with the VIM pan together with HYDRO BARRIER to completelywaterproof the pan and the shower flooring. So again, in another video were going toshow you how to do that. Okay, and then if you have additional sealantto use, if you want to address the drywall seam now Now, you want to be careful thatyoure not going to come outside of your tile work.Basically were going to be comingout 30 so were mostly a outside of where our modulation is. But if youreconcerned about this area, you can always merely use some of the sealant right on thatseam. Where your shower entrances are going to be, this really isnt going to be a wetarea because your shower doors “il go to” probably be another inch inside. So itsreally up to you. It truly depends whether you have enough sealant to go over this seam.But I wouldnt certainly consider it a critical area, but not a bad feeling precisely to crowd thatarea.Smoothing the sealant in this area is importantbecause you dont want it to interfere with the installation of your shower doors or withthe tile that will overlap the HYDRO BAN Board and the border drywall. So again, justsmooth it down with your putty knife, and you should be good to go.This curbless shower turned out immense. We actually exploited metro tile on the walls anda marble mosaic on the shower go. If you want to see how we tiles this shower, weregoing to articulated all those videos inside the Bathroom Repair Tutor video library. You can clickright here to verify that out for yourself. Itll obviously help you simplify the craftof structure a custom-built lavatory. Thanks for watching our tutorial today. Ifyou have any questions, let us know, and united be more than happy to help you out. Take care !.

Apple Watch Screen Replacement—How To

The figurehead glass in your Apple WatchSport might be extra strong thanks to its IonX glass, but it’s notindestructible. Whether it’s due to gravity or clumsiness, fractures andscratches happen. And when they do, it’s time to replace your screen. If you’reone of those inauspicious feelings with a cracked Apple Watch, cease your fret because today I’m going to show you how to change thescreen in your Apple Watch. Hi, I’m Gwendolyn with iFixit, and for thisrepair you’re going to need protective eyewear, a arched razor blade, openingpicks, an iOpener, a give of plastic opening tools or a spudger, a duet oftweezers, and a 1mm flat front screwdriver. Before you get started, makesure your Apple watch is completely turned off, and as always, make sure youcheck out and follow our stepbystep guide on ifixit.com.Not merely does it go you through the ended amend, but you can also seecomments and indicates from other customers who have tried this amend, which is reallycool and very helpful.Let’s get started by heating up our iOpener. Just 30 seconds in the microwave should do it, but while it’s heating up, go ahead andpop off the bands. Once your iOpener is nice and warm, place it on the face of the watch and leave it there for at least a minute. I’d era it on my watch, but … And now for some precision work. We’regoing to use our curved spear for the next step, but there are a few safetyrules you are able to keep in mind before “youre beginning”. Ever keep your fingerscompletely clear of the bayonet. Be careful not to apply too much adversity, as youmight cause the knife to slip and trim you, or shatter the watch. And ultimately, weareye defence. The pierce or glass may divulge, moving patches flying. As you areprying the display up, keep your eye on the force touch sensor cable that sitsin between the screen and the watch’s case.If you ascertain the top bed of thecable coming up in your parade, it wants the two beds of the cable haveseparated, and you’re gonna need to replace it, or mend it. Enough aboutyour safety, let’s talk about the security concerns of the watch. Using a arcked blademinimizes the chances of scratching the occasion, or cracking the glass. Only prywith the swerved division of the blade and not the tip-off or the flat area. And oncethe crack opens, if you’re pressing more hard on the spear, it may slip and cutthe battery, so maintain complete control of your bayonet at all times. Let’s starton the lower edge of the watch face and press securely down into the gap, creatinga thin crack. When the glass has elevated, gently rotate the pierce down, opening thegap more and propagandizing the glass up. Now we’re gonna use opening pickings to cut theadhesive and prevent it from resetting. Make sure you don’t insert the collect anymore than you have to, and remember to use a rolling gesture rather thandragging it along the edge.This will ensure you don’t push the collect in toofar, injury anything on the inside. Work your nature around the face of the watchcounterclockwise. Is there a joke there? Watch, counterclockwise … Leave this collect in place to keep the adhesive fromresetting. While deeming the first collect, design the second pick around theperimeter to ensure that all the adhesive is trimmed. Then you can startprying up on the right side, and then move to the left.But, don’t try to removethe screen just yetit’s still attached by two cables. To avoid any damage tothese cables, lift the screen up and shifting it to the left. Now we can elevate the watch so the facecan hang and we can work on the battery. We’re expend a small box, but you can usea book or anything as long as it’s a halfinch from your counter. Really becareful not to bump the screen or string the cables while “youre working”. Get your opening tool out and use it towedge up the battery on the right side. But remember, it’s still attached, sodon’t take it out all the way. To detach the artillery, lift up a little and rotatecounterclockwise, which should give you a clear scene of the cable. And now, you canuse your plastic opening tool to lever against the bottom of the case andseparate the battery cable connector from the watch battery cable. Then youcan lift the battery right out of the watch.With the battery out of the way, now we can focus on the screen. Fold the screen up and over to the right toexpose the cables underneath. Now we can see the small metal bracket that isyouguessed itadhered to the speaker. We’re going to crowbar the bracket up with ouropening implement. Quick warning though: If you’re prying towards the watch band, youmay cry the cables, so use your opening tool and flip the bracket towards thedisplay. This bracket is a little tricky, but nothing we can’t handle together. It’s made up of an upper and a lower segment. The connectors are secured to thelower, and the upper has to be removed to disconnect them. To do this we’re goingto stumble it with a couple of tools: the penalize tip-off tweezers and a small flatheadbit. Use the penalize tip tweezers to comprehend the lower half of the bracket, theninsert the small flathead screwdriver between the tab and the lower bracket, and revolve the screwdriver to spread the gap.The last step before you are eligible to disconnectthe screen is sliding out the metal invoice that fits into the slot of the lowerbracket. To do that, give the upper bracket with your tweezers and slip ittowards the top of the watch to disengage the tab and free the brackets. Now we can see those cables anddisconnect them with our opening implement. Finally, lift the display from the watchfor reassembly. We recommend you follow the stepbystep guide in reverse, and wealso have a video guide on reapplying adhesive. You can find all the parts andtools you need for this and many other restores at ifixit.com, and make us knowhow it goes. You knows where to find me on Twitter @ gwendolyngay and follow iFixit @ iFixit. Don’t forget to subscribe to our YouTube channel to stay up to date onall our recent teardowns and restore videos, and utter us a like on Facebook atfacebook.com/ ifixit ..

Schluter Shower Installation (Part 2 – Waterproofing Walls with KERDI) — by Home Repair Tutor

Heres the question: How do you waterproofthe walls in a Schluter shower installation? Well, in todays videothis is part 2of 3were going to show you how to waterproof the drywall in the shower sphere expending SchluterKERDI.Now remember, Schluter does recommend utilizing drywall in this instance because we are, afterall, going to be waterproofing all three walls expending the KERDI membrane. Now if you missedpart 1, we demo you how to actually cut down the shower go, the curtail, install theshower niche in the region of the shower, and we got amazing ensues with the showersystem. The shower that we ended up with gazes awesome. But a big one of the purposes of that is installingthe KERDI membrane the right way, and were going to show you how to do that right now.Were going to install all the KERDI membrane and the whole Schluter system and tiling forthat matter with Schluters ALLSET.The ALLSET can be used on all phases of thisinstallation, so you dont have to worry about coming different types of thinset forthe installation. So were just going to go with the ALLSET. Im going to mix afull bag. I probably wont need this is something that, but Im likewise doing DITRA heat membrane onthe outside the shower, and Im going to use this as well. If you desegregate this properly, make sure you pay attention to the instructions on mingling this and with the liberty quantityof spray. So the sea capacities here is 5 to 6 quarts. To install this KERDImembrane and everything, were going to want to have it as rain as is practicable. So weregoing to go with the 6 quarts of sea. And make sure that you measure that out.BasicallyI just got a little bucket with some commemorates on it. This is a 4 quart pail. Add somewater for that. Make sure youre up to your level line on there. So thats 4 quarts.And then well exit 2 quarts. Thats 2. So 6 quarts per suitcase, and you haveto mix it for five minutes. Put it on a timer; well start desegregating for 5 minutes. Its truly, really important to mingle the Schluter ALLSET for that five minutes. You wantit at the freedom rpms, you want to use the right amount of spray and a great mixer. Andthats going to get you the smooth, creamy firmnes that you need. So again, do theinitial concoction for five minutes to get that milky texture.Well let it slake for 10 instants and then mix again.So after this slake for 10 minutes, we start to mix it for another three. Right, so then after telling it slake, wemix it again for another 3 minutes per the directions.So Im just going to applied a level line over where my first sheets going to start justto make sure Im not overhanging it, and Im not will be necessary to do more drive finishingthis drywall. So its delightful time to have a nice, little level line.So the first step is just take a damp sponge and mop down your drywall. Really get any dustor any extra pieces off of it. And its too the same as applying thinset to anything.You kind of want to dampen the surface so its not sucking the humidity out of thethinset immediately. So we are only have our KERDI trowel, and youwant to time succeed this into the surface like any mortar installation as well.Using the flat back of the trowel facilitates get the thinset on the wall.This is the initialphase of applying thinset to the drywall, and well get plenty of thinset on it usingthe notch back. Okay, so now you just want to time trowelmore thinset. As “youre seeing”, Steve is applying more thinset with the notched side of thetrowel, all of the notches facing in the same direction, so in this case downward. You cansee just how much thinset were applying to the drywall. This is super important forproper coverage underneath the KERDI membrane. So again, make sure you apply bountiful amountsof thinset to the drywall, burning that thinset in with the flat side of the trowel reallyhelps out with this, and exploiting your second hair consuming the notched place. So again, youdefinitely want to be using the KERDI trowel or the notched size trowel that Steve recommendedat the opening up of the video for this. So consuming the KERDI trowel is super importantfor that coverage as well. So now Im going to have your whole rollprecut. You dont have to fool around with chipping it while youre installing it.Tryto get this over to your level line. Just use the flat one of the purposes of the trowel. I didntget enough on this place. Make sure I have my totality side replenished in here.After plant the KERDI membrane onto the drywall, its really important to removeany of the aura suds that are underneath it. So there is a specific method to this.So Steve is starting out at the ceiling, removing any of the aura foams there. And werealso going to remove the thinset from that drywall in a little bit now, but youreremoving in a oblique direction to eliminate the aura gaps.I find it easier to various kinds of go oblique to push all this air out if you have any air in here.Basically just going from one slope to the other, so you dont net any air.Okay, so now its not a bad project to pull this off and just see the amount of coverageyou have.I precisely need to push it in this area a little bit more.You want to make sure that the thinsets grabbing onto the fleece well. A little bitin that corner here. Im going to wipe off the rest of my drywall and any thinset thatI got on it. All right , now well more onto the next sheet.So again, wipe down the neighbourhood when youre positioning it.So after wetting down the wall with a soften rinse, you can apply thinset to this mainwall and the remaining portion of that back wall. Again, its really important to burnthe thinset into the drywall with the flat back of the trowel and then use the notchedside to apply more thinset. Overlap is 2 inches, so make sure that youthinset to each piece together here. And like I said, its a minimum of 2 inches. If yougo over it, thats penalty. You time dont want to go under that extent. Like I said, if you overlap the expanses like this, at the full membrane, and you dont have to use theKERDI Band in the corner, you can precisely this 2inch lap is all you need so you donthave to mess around with an additional corner tape.Okay, so basically you merely line this up with your other membrane here.So Im just goingto use a regular drywall knife to cut this into the corner and apparently being carefulnot to imbue sheath, but I want to have this angle all delightful and tighten it is therefore easieraround my tile office. Okay, and then I would simply embed one area before you go and tryto feather out the other side really to make sure that this is all even with no aura bubbles.Getting the twoinch overlap is most important. As you can see here, Steve is removing anyof the air gaps squandering both the KERDI trowel and that drywall spear that hes holdingin his hands. Okay, and then once you have that place embedded, you can go ahead and embed this other side. Like I said, rather than try to push thisall in and propagandize a whole bunch of aura into this sheet, youre better off at kind ofgoing at a diagonal from one feature to the other.Because once you propagandize this area in, then youregoing to trap all that air in there. So merely act from the reces over.So you do have some result action on the bottom now because were going to have the panand then were going to have our KERDIBand above now. So like right here, Im an inchshort of the storey; thats not going to affect anything, so you dont have to be1 00% tighten to the floor. It only has to be able to be covered by two inches above thiswhen you situated the go down. So we got like an inch and a half on the pan thickness. Soas long as youre within two inches of the storey, truly, youre pretty good. But Illtry to make it as close-fisted as you are eligible to. Theres no problem in being a little bit short-lived onthat.So Im just going to clean it down. I justlike to wipe this down. You dont have to do this; you can just leave it like that.So again, moderated the drywall with your sponge; doesnt have to be a plentiful quantity of water, just enough to dampen it so that you can then apply the thinset over top of it. So again, were burning the thinset with the flat place. And then expending the notch slope and gettingour twoinch overlap with your other KERDI thats previously on the wall.So I aimed up feathering this whole side of the niche as well because what I want to dois Im going to cut this KERDI so this sleeves into the niche. So the same rule exercises, you precisely need to have two inches of overlap on any seam.And since this niche is alreadywaterproof, Im just going to bring that corner all the way into the corner of theniche so then this whole wall is flush. So again, starting at the ceiling actually helpsout with this process whenever youre overlapping the two inches on the right here and overlappinginto the corner. So Im only going to push one side in andwork my road from the top because I dont want to trap a whole assortment of breeze into thatcorner because that can be kind of difficult to get out of the corner.Using a sixinch seam deepen bayonet genuinely facilitates out a ton. That, together with the KERDItrowel, are basically the only two tools you need to flatten out the KERDI thats overtop the drywall. So again, were is moving forward a oblique direction to do that. Wereembedding the KERDI in the corner and removing all of those breeze chinks. Again, we cant stresshow important this is because if youve got an air gap, thats what your tile isgoing to be set over.So you dont want any air gaps. You require the KERDI to be niceand flat over top the drywall. Again, thats also why you dont want to finish the drywallwith any joint complex slime. You precisely want it to be plain, age-old drywall over top the studs.So were get our smooth finish here; likewise works out any air illusions at the bottombecause that could interfere with the pan installation as well.Okay, it is therefore still not a bad theory to gather this apart and just see that you have goodcoverage. So there you can see how well thats genuinely covering.Okay, so then at this reces now, were going to cut out a part of the niche and allowthat tissue to go further into the niche, while being careful that itll trimmed partof the niche out.So just be careful with how youre trimming this. So were justgoing to let that crimp in there. And you have been able fold the reces there if you wanted to, allthe behavior around, but I prefer not to have any buildup at all in that corner. So Id ratherjust cut it off straight. And you got like three inches of room on that back committee, so were surely get that twoinch overlap on that seam.When we go to do the KERDIBand, I would still do a KERDIBand on this region because youcould have this glowing trimmed right here, so you want to make sure that this whole corner iscompletely waterproof. So it would be a good idea to get strip around there. Or you couldKERDIFix it, whatever. I imply, just as long as you get and same with the top cornerhere as well. You dont normally “re going to have to” do that whenyou have it in a wall somewhere because this whole edge is already waterproofed all theway around.But since I cut off that one side of the flange, you just want to make surethat you have that reces flooded well. So get a little bit of okay.Lets get a little thinset on there. Use a damp leech to knock down any of thethinset thats on the wall. Thatll help get your smooth finish over top of the KERDI.Here, were just marking our location where we want to end the KERDI exerting our level.Just going up the wall. Again, having this boundary line facilitates out. And then dampeningthe drywall like we did for the other three walls.And then likewise squandering our flat back ofthe trowel to apply the initial amount of thinset to the drywall. So were keepingin with our way there. We dont actually want to go over the line. And then wereusing our directional troweling to apply the rest of the thinset. Weve got a nice layerof that on this plumbing wall. Then were going to hang the KERDI just like we did onthe other three walls. So this guy, you dont have to worry abouttoo much because were going to have a big flange that croaks around this.So even if itscut kind of wild, youll have plenty of cavity. And around this chap. Of route youtry to cut this as tightly as possible because the flange that comes with Schluter isntnecessarily going to fit, so Im just going along this sheathe lookout. Im just tryingto cut it as tightly as I can. Starting at the ceiling, like we did before.This removes all the gaps and then you can move downward, and in that oblique directionto wring out any of the aura gaps thats behind the KERDI. So this plumbing wall isreally important because number one: this is where a lot of sea is going to smacked thetile wall, so you demand this to be nice and right. And so were just removing any ofthe KERDI around that mixing valve so that we can get a nice, tighten fit and flat KERDIover top the drywall. So I was necessary to make sure I have enough in thisflange. Kind of overhanging by three inches on this back, so thats great.As you can see here, Steve is pulling the KERDI taut with his left hand and then smoothingit out with his right.Thats kind of nice to do at the bottom because that allows youto finish off the application and get a smooth finish.Okay, then well only cut out the niche. And this doesnt required to be folded around, and it can precisely be even with the edge, or leaving a little above. Just be careful notcutting encounter, I exactly actually various kinds of rent out too far over, so Im going to have toput a spot on this area. Try to make sure your blades not chipping into the KERDIBoardbelow it. So just so I dont forget about that, Imgoing to do that now. I find it best to take care of a recognize you screwed up right away oryou might forget about it.So thats as easy as it gets as far as patching it. Theresnothing more hard about that. Now, the KERDIBand is a little bit thinnerthan the rest of the KERDI on the walls, it is therefore does take up a little less, and it doesntbuild out as much. And well build a little bit. And so causes set some on this corneras well. Now, I dont have an extra outside cornerfor this. So Im just going to This is perhaps one of the most importantsections of the shower inside the niche. Its going to get hit with a lot of ocean. So youwant to have that KERDIBand overlap. And exploiting Steves method will help avoid anywater reveals into the stud cavity. So do what he did there with cutting down the KERDIBandand overlapping. And then likewise, we want to mention, its super important to knock downthe thinset and to make it as smooth as is practicable so that it doesnt interfere with the settingof the tile on the shower wall and inside the niche.Its still not a bad sentiment to position a little of KERDIFix now because Im not overlappingthis another two inches.So the weak point still is this slight little angle. But thisis probably waterproof right now. But only to be safe, formerly this dries, Im just goingto articulated like a little dab in that corner. And like I said, the only reason that I neededto do that was because I cut off that line-up board of the niche. So were going to haveto do the same thing up here. Make sure you have the suitable coverage here.So only fold this in this corner. Do this area here again. Overlapping.We did the exact same method on the priorities in the niche. And again, were just using oursponge to knock down any of the thinset and to make it smooth over transcend of the KERDI.So this is the final slouse of KERDI membrane that were putting over top of the drywall; simply a small section.And this completes the plumbing wall.So just recollect to overlap each patch by two inches here.The sixinch joint deepen pierce actually helps out with this small section of KERDI, andwere smoothing out any of the thinset thats behind it. So were maintaining our delightful, flat wall. Again, this is the last section of KERDI on the plumbing wall.Okay, so in the depletion package, itll come with a pipe shut. So thats going to go aroundthe shower head. And then it also comes with a standard fourinch for your valve seal.Now you can see here, this is not going to fit on this vogue valve. So is still not goingto be able to use this around here.So what you want to do is I have to take this coveroff and precisely seal the edge of the drywall around this area with KERDIFix. So, itsnice to use this, but when youre in a circumstance like this where it wont fit, theresnothing you can do. You wont be able to use it.So on this person, its going to go on this pipe, and then you really thinset around it.So well cut some of this excess. As “youre seeing”, were exercising a generousamount of the thinset around the pipe. You really require this valve covering to be embeddedinto the thinset amply. So were just going to slide that over the piping, and were goingto use our sixinch joint compound knife to smooth it out. Again, you want to use a spongeas well to knock down the thinset. In video 3, were going to show you howto waterproof the shower go and the constrain. Well situated that video right here.Wereactually creating a playlist now on YouTube with all of our videos on how we remodel thisshower, and the results are awesome. But it all begins with waterproofing the walls andthe shower wash before you designated the tile. If you are redoing a lavatory, and youreremodeling it, and you crave extra tips-off, get our free navigate right here. Its awesome.Itll show you how to do a bathroom remodel in ten days or less. Tons of huge tips-off inthat guidebook. Thanks for watching this video, and wellsee you in the next one.Take charge !.

How to Fix a Pinhole Leak in a Copper Pipe — by Home Repair Tutor

How do you cook a copper pinhole disclose in lessthan 10 hours? Well, today Im going to show you how todo it in this video, and remain chanted until the end because Im going to have a surprisefor you. All claim? So causes got to get it. Im going to show you how to fix this copperpipe if its leaking in your ceiling or under your sink. Before you know it, its going to be fixed, and itll give you some time to call the plumber.Well, you might be wondering why Im doingthis tutorial outside even though it has to do with copper tubes. Well, its a beautiful day here in Pittsburgh, and I figured Id do the tutorial outside. So there you have it. Let jump into it. “Its what” a copper pinhole leak looks likein a copper piping. As “youre seeing”, its got a green recognize inthe middle-of-the-road, a reverberate around it, and it is likely to be spilling spray. Now how did I set mine? So there was one right here.I abused the Fixit Stick by Oatey. And this is great because it accommodates a temporaryfix to the hole in the tube. Now you got to wear mitts when you mix thistogether because it is in two parts. Youll realize there is a putty in it, and theputty has a light gray exterior to it and a light grey-haired interior portion to it. So you want to mix them together until itsa light-colored gray uniformity. And the reason why you want to do that isbecause a chemical reaction will happen when with this Fixit Stick, and it will becomenice and rock solid on the pipe. So heres what it looks like whenever itsproperly desegregated together. And the cool thing about this Fixit Stickis you precisely articulated it right over the copper pinhole hole, and itll buy you some time to eitherpermanently fix it or call in a plumber. So the Fixit Stick, you want to mold andshape it around the copper pinhole leak so that its watertight and originates a niceseal.But again, the cool persona is, it buys you thattime, right? So even if you temporarily sterilize this, so thatovernight you can be rest assured that that pinhole divulge isnt leaking, you can thencall the plumber the next day or you can fix the pipe yourself. And you can store the Fixit Stick later on. It becomes rock solid and watertight in justa few minutes. Then you can turn the water back on to yourhouse. So here is where that piping used to be.It was up in my ceiling, as you can see. The pinhole opening is so small that it was barelynoticeable. I actually conceived the subfloor above wasleaking spray from the shower, but it wasnt; its this tiny little pinhole leak. And what I needed to do was turn the wateroff at the water mainso thats what youll want to do. Made to ensure that the piping is cool; wipe it offwith a rag. Mix up a 1 x 1 clod of the Fixit Stick, and mold and mold it around the copper pinhole leak. And this, again, will allow you to turn thewater back on in simply a few moments and be able to use your house.You dont have to shut down your entirehouse just for this copper pinhole leak. And then if you want to, the next day, ifits like midnight and you find this, you can either cut out this section of hose orcall the plumber to do that for you. But I exactly cut this tube out because therewere several reveals that looked like they were going to form. So there you have it. This was a beautiful, temporary repair that allowedme to continue to use my house. Of course, I changed the piping and replacedthe ceiling. Thats a whole other story. Well, there you have it. Thats how you secure a copper pinhole leakin a tube, right? Its super simple. And with the Fixit Stick by Oatey, youllbe able to do this, buy yourself some time either to be able to fix the copper tube yourselfor call in a plumber.So heres the astonish. Im going to give away three of these sticksback over on Home Repair Tutor. So check out HomeRepairTutor.com. Click on one of these buttons over here. Itll make you over to the site. That acces youll be able to check out thelatest tutorial and register the random giveaway to win one of these Fixit Sticks, all right? So I hope you enjoyed todays video. Take care, and Ill talk to you soon. Theres Meg. Shes my daughter. Hi, Meg. Wave! Meg, Meg, wave! There she goes ..

How to Grout Ceramic Tile Bathroom Floors with Mapei Flexcolor CQ (Step-by-Step)

So heres the question of the day: How doyou grout a tile storey? Well were going to share with you one of the most wonderful grouts thatsout there on the market. Youre not going to find this in your neighbourhood home storage, butyou will find it in a really great tile specialty store. And this grout is announced FlexcolorCQ by Mapei. And this is great because its colorcoated quartz grout, and its alreadypremixed for you so you dont have to mix it up.So there are a few things that were going to go over today to made to ensure that your installationof the grout becomes smoothly and that the tile storey looks great after youre done.So you will need a few things for the Flexcolor CQ.Were going to use a boundary trowel.I are well aware says its premixed, but you still have to mix it up a little bit. You simply donthave to mix it up with liquid. Youre going to need a clean-living rubber hover like this. Abucket of ocean. A leech. And then if you dont have knee pads that are clean, likeme, you can use a towel for your knees. Before we get started, Im just going toshare with you exactly what were going to do because you do have to move a littlebit quickly with the Flexcolor CQ.Were going to spread it onto the tile now. Weregoing to use our float. Were going to spread it into the grout joints at a 45 angle.Were then going to remove that grout at a 90 inclination with this grout float. And thenyoure going to do that diagonally to the tile. So formerly youre done removing mostof the grout, youre going to take a damp sponge, like this one now, and youre goingto move that diagonally across the tile and clean off the top of the tile. This is superimportant. And you should only spread enough of the Flexcolor CQ such that you can removeit in about 5 to 10 minutes. Now the other thing is were going to moistenthe top of our tiles before we settled the Flexcolor CQ on it with the mute leech. This is notgoing to be super wet or anything, merely dampen enough that you soak the top of the tile.Lets open this up.Oh, the second thing I want to mention is make sure you have aclean margin trowel. I was just going to get mine, and it has thinset all over it. And I was like, you know what, this is $ 5. Im just going to go and buy a brand-new one.So were just going to mix this up a little bit. Its previously premixed to the rightconsistency, which is really nice. So theres no judge activity on your proportion to figure out, Oh, is this the right consistency? No, this is the right consistency.The interesting thing I want to mention is the temperature has to be about 50 to 90 F in order toapply this. And your tiles and your grout seams should be absolutely clean and freeof dusts. So step one is to dampen the tiles. You dontwant irrigate are in conformity with the grout joints, but you obviously require the tiles to be damp.And then what were going to do is just drag this; were just going to move thisinto the grout seams at a 45 angle. So again, youre just packing the joints.So now were just going to scrape off the grout at a 90 slant diagonally to the tile.And exactly leech this off.This part is super duper important because you dont want thisgrout to be sitting on top of the tile. Now you can also influence the grout seams withyour rinse. So feel free to do that. You dont want any excess spray in the groutjoints. So simply lightly go over this with your sponge. Okay, thats good enough forthere. Were going to move on to the next division now.So again, were just going to delicately dampen the top parcel of the tile. So as I movefrom right to left here, Im just going to scrape that grout off the top of the tileat that 90 direction. So Im kind of moving the grout from right to left and moving itinto the grout seams. And the nice thing is if you see that you have any grout jointsthat are missing the grout, you can only pack it in there and then move the grout in thedirection that you need it to go. So now were just going to wipe this off.And, you are aware, you can wipe it off once and then you can flip your rinse over and wipeit off again in a oblique direction.Then you was necessary to clean-living your leech. So wipe downonce with one area of the rinse. Flip the sponge over and do the exact same thing. Butagain, dont go crazy with this. You only want to get most of the grout off the topof the tile, but you dont want to remove the grout from the tile grout joint.So you see how my bucket sprays going foggy? This is a good time to switch out thewater or to have a second bucket if youre really wanting to do this quickly. Again werejust going to place a soften sponge on top of the tiles.All right. So again, were just going to wipe down like we did before. And at thispoint, you should be getting the hang of it. So again, were just working our way outof the bathroom here.As “youre seeing”, I dont need a ton of grout.Maybe, you are aware, if youre feeling in terms of cooking, about of a cup to a goblet ofgrout. I dont know any other way to kind of express it.Now underneath this entire tile floor is DITRA. So theres DITRA underneath this. We waterproofedthe entire lavatory storey. So if theres water that does is behind this grout jointor the tile, its waterproofed with the DITRA.Here we have at this transition here.This is the tile, obviously. This is the carpet.And this is a Schluter profile right here. This is Schluter RENO, I believe thatswhat it is. If I “ve given you” the wrong specify, I apologize. But this is a really great transitionstrip by Schluter. All right, so what it does is if youre going from a higher elevationto a lower hill by time a little, you can use this. And it eases that transition.So I wanted to say about this great transition strip right here.So again were just working the grout into the floor. And when we get to the transitionstrip now, theres a little grout joint. Its like literally 1/16, and we aregoing to work grout into that. And then if you do have some additional grout onthe tile, you are eligible to really pick it up like that with a boundary trowel. And yeah, you definitelywant to get any of the grout off of this RENOV Schluter profile as well.You dont wantto let it sit here. So what can you do for the gap thats betweenthe tub and tile? You can use Keracaulk S. This is Mapeis premium sanded siliconizedacrylic caulk. So you can use this between the tub and the tile. The nice persona aboutthis sealant is it will parallel all of Mapeis sanded grout colours. So if you want to tryto match the sanded grout colouring, you can use this concoction now. For pattern, the colorof the Flexcolor CQ was in chocolate. And this specific Keracaulk S is in chocolateas well. I likewise want to say that you do not have touse painters tape on the bathtub or the tile if youre very comfortable abusing a sealant.I just wanted to show it as an example of what you could do.Cut the tip here at an slant, and this will help you work the sealant into the joint.Also, its nice to have a little cup of spray or leech adjacent so you can dip yourfinger in it and manipulate the silicone, or whatever youre using, into the joint.So what you do is just get your sealant going here.Fill in the area. Again, you can just take your paw and really succeed that into the joint. Once youredone requesting the sealant, you can pull back the strip. Im going to give myself a littlebit of leeway here because Im the camera guy and the sealant applicator, so sometimesits a little tough to do both. So this turned out pretty good. You can seehow the seam here is nice and tighten to the tile and to the tub.Once youre done grouting with Flexcolor CQ, you can give yourself about an hour andyou can wipe down the top of the tile again.But there really isnt much residue leftover when you use this, and thats whats really great about it. You was necessary to waitabout 24 hours before you have illuminated paw commerce on it. Follow the directions on thecontainer, and you should be good to go. What we really like about it is: its premixed, easy to put down into the grout seams; theres not a lot of residue that sits on top of itif you follow future directions; you dont have to seal it; and you can quickly grouta bathroom floor, move on to your next project.Thats important if youre a home owneror if youre a contractor. So continue that in knowledge when you select your grout, and yourFlexcolor CQs a great alternative for you. By all means, its not the only grout thatwe consume, but we really, really like it for storeys, and we wanted to share that with youtoday. If you experienced todays video, you can subscribeto our YouTube channel right here. You can also watch our DITRA installation right hereas well. Thats what you want to put down underneath a shower tile flooring because youcan waterproof the entire floor, and you can prevent your tiles from cracking over go, and thats super important.So again, you can watch the DITRA video right there.Thats it for today. Let me know if you have any questions down in the comments, andIll talk to you soon. Take care ..

How to Install the Best Door Sweep for Exterior Doors

Hey there. I’m Jeff with Home Repair Tutor, and in this video I’m going to share with you how to replace your doorway wipe. Now whydo you want to do this? Well, a doorway broom is the simplest thing that you can do to yourentry door or to your exterior doorway that will help lower your heating and cooling bills.So that’s a good reason to make love, right? And it doesn’t cost very much money2 0 max.So let’s get to it, and before you know it, you’re going to learn how to do this simplerepair and your heating and cooling monies will be much lower. Let’s get started.As you can see here, my entryway is besieged with snow. So I it is necessary applied a entrance scope onthis entryway doorway that goes into our garage. Now here’s the batch. This is the best doorsweep in my view. Now you can challenge this on the comments section, but it’s a Ushapedor Uchannel door wipe that you can put on the bottom of the door.And it’s got lipson it so that it protects the full margin of your doorboth on the inside and the outside.I know I needed this doorway embroil because, well, there’s sun coming in from underneath it.And I taken away from the aged one in the summer. To position a Ushaped door move, you shouldremove the door from the hinges. You can use a tack rectify and a hammer to do that. Just placethe nail specify underneath the bolt and sound it with the hammer.If you can’t attract the bolt out by hand, you can use a duo of path fastenings or pliersto snatch it outkind of like a tooth. Oh, and by the way, I wanted to give you ahot tip. Keep the door in the closed positionso, in the door jamwhen you draw the pins.It’s so much easier to do it that way.Now I could remove the door and target it onthe storey Good thing I chew my Wheaties today, right? So there are three things that it is required to dothree thingsbefore you buy a brand-new doorsweep. Number one, you need to pick out a doorway expanse that will accommodate the gap betweenthe bottom of your opening and the top of the threshold. So in such cases, it was about 7/16 of an inch. The second calculation that you need is the width of the door. So in thiscase, it’s about 32 inches. The third measurement that you need is the thickness of the door.So in this case, my doorway thickness is about 1 inches thick.You could use some diameter to cut your doorway scope to size. Or you could dry fit the doorsweep onto the bottom of the door. And precisely commemorate where you need to cut it.Now you can use a hacksaw and a miter box to cut the door sweep.The one thing I’m going to do to make sure that this installation is really good andgoing to be super secure is add a bead of caulk to the bottom of the door.That room, the door sweep will stick to the caulk. And I’m going to screw it downI’m going toshow you that next. Place this bead of caulk herea delightful, thick bead that’s big enoughsuch that it will touch is not simply the bottom of the door but the top of the door sweep.Okay, the next step is to make sure that when you arrange your entrance extent onto the bottomof the door, the holes for the screwings are going to be on the inside portion of the door, or thein other wordsinterior portion of the door that will be inside your house.So residence the door sweep into the bottom of the door, and just lightly sounds it into placewith your hand. And because this is a metal door, I’m going to predrill some holes intoit. Anywhere that there’s a defect in the door sweep, make sure that you predrill. So here, down now, down now … And if you need an extrahole, like I do right here, just go ahead and instruct one right through the door sweep.And that style you’ll have an extra bolt on the leading edge where you need it.Now the second thing I’m going to do is drill holes into the bottom of the door sweep becausethere’s already caulk in the center.What I want to do is have fuckings go through thatcaulk and secure the bottom of the sweep to the door.So again, anywhere there’s a flaw on the side of the door, I’m going to put one on the bottomso that they partner up and really, certainly make this door sweep super secure.Now all you need to do is add your shafts starting from the center and making yourway outward to both sides of the door. Oh, as a area memorandum, I’m employ 3/4 inch no. 6 metal screwspin front clamps. Once you’re done appending all those screwsto the side of the door, supplemented the fuckings to the bottom of the door sweep.Okay , now all you have to do is articulated the door back in placeeasier said than done, right? All right.Looks like it labours. Lookings like the door sweep jobs and it’s maintaining allthe cold aura from coming underneath the door and into the house.Well there you have it. That’s the best door clean that I think you could put one over your entrydoor or exterior door. Let me know what you think in the comments, but again, it’s a Ushapeddoor sweep. And I like it because, peculiarly if you got a metal door like this one or evena grove door, it protects both the interior and the exterior fraction of the door so thatit doesn’t corrode or simply waste away over day because of the elements outsidelikerain and snow. So let me know what you think in the commentssection. And if “youve been” own hot gratuities, please add them there because we all want to learnas a DIY group. And remember, if you haven’t already doneso, you can join me over on YouTube. Are contributing to my YouTube channel. And you can sign upfor my email newsletter over at HomeRepairTutor.com’ induce every single week you’re going to geta new tip that’s going to help you save money, go, and again, retain, prevent you frombeing overtook when you do your own DIY project.So until the next video, I hope you have a great day.And I’ll talk to you soon .[ Outtakes] Well, there you have it. That’s what I thinkis the best kind of door scope to put one across your enter doorway or yourthe door isn’t closed.< giggles> Woo! It was like 6 when I started, but nowit’s warming up. I didn’t even reduce this morning’ generate I wanted to preserve some facialheat ..

How to Wire an Elecrical Outlet (Important Tips) — by Home Repair Tutor

Hey, everyone! Today Im going to show you wire an electricaloutlet or install an electrical outlet. This is for my friend, Denise, and your best friend, Heather. They recently asked me to do this tutorial. So guess what, here it is. So Ive got a special surprise for you atthe end. Stay chanted, and I hope you enjoy this. So gives jump into it. Grab yourself a tour analyzer or a receptacleanalyzer like this one now because it will tell you whether or not your store is wiredthe right way. So plug it into the outlet, and look at thetwo flames that are yellow. That indicates that it is in fact cabled properly. Then go ahead and turn the electric off atthe panel of fuse box. Grab yourself your noncontact voltage sensor. Doublecheck the electrical is off. And you can see how this outlet is jiggling. Its a nono. and Im going to show howto fix that next. So you can take the outlet window-dressing off. And you be seen to what extent the outlet moves back andforth? Grab yourself or go out and buy some of theseplastic implants, these plastic spacers.You can fold them over themselves, and thenput them down over the fucks on the top and the bottom of your outlet nails that attachthe channel to the electrical chest. And what thatll do is provide a spacerso that the shop will not wiggle. In this case, the box wiggles a little. Now if you have an outlet that has the tabspainted over, you can score the invoices with a utility pierce. That route, the outlet will not tear the paintoff the wall. Again, doublecheck that the electric is offwith the voltage tester. Pull the outlet out with your hands usingthe tabs.Then as you can see here, I want to show youthe insularity is stripped off too much from these cables. The insularity, when its stripped off toomuch, it discloses too much copper, and the copper wire could touch the electrical box, creating an electrical problem. All liberty. So what is necessary do first is unwire thehotwires. Again, now I wanted to show you something. The wire loop-the-loop isnt properly looped, andthats risky because the hotwire couldve came off the terminal screw. Then erase the terminal bolts that hold thewhite neutral wires onto the outlets. There “theres going”. And then the last thing you want to do isunwire the anchor wire. Again, only counterclockwise, turn that screw, and then pull the sand cable off the outlet. The next stair is to choose the correct kindof outlet.So in such cases, I have a 15 A store. Im going to replace it with, you guessedit, a 15 A store. I chose to get a Pass& Seymour 15 A tamperresistantoutlet. And these days, you should always buy a tamperresistantoutlet, specially if “youve had” kids. And a great deal of regional codes require it. So make sure you check your neighbourhood code. Now “theres going”. Heres the channel. There are the brass bolts. Nows the back of the store where youcan push the wires into it. And then you have your silver screwing for yourneutral cables. And then your light-green foot nail. Now in such cases, I wanted to show you theresa little strip gage on the side of the outlet.This is really handy because what you cando is put your wires up against that piece gage, and you are eligible to trimmed them to size or youcan divest the insularity off according to the gage. Once you do that for one wire, you are eligible to simplyjust give the wire up against all the other ones and strip off the suitable amountof insulation. So as you can see here, there “theres going”. My neutral wire is appropriately sized, andthen I precisely cut both my hotwires to the same size as my neutral wire.I wanted to show you this. Inside the electrical chest, you have your groundwires. They should all be pigtailed together andthen have another wire coming out of that pigtail. So there you go. Theres the wire nut, and theres thepigtail. Take some emery cloth and wipe all the barecopper wires with the emery cloth. That road you can be certain that youregoing to get great electrical contact with the bare copper wires, and that youre goingto have a really good contact with your channel. So wire up the anchor cable firstly to the greenterminal pin. Make sure its looped around clockwise. Then tightened down that dark-green terminal pin. The next wires that I like to wire up arethe neutral wires, and they go with the silver terminal nails. So slackened the terminal screwings by turning themcounterclockwise. And in such cases, for this Pass& Seymouroutlet, I precisely propagandized the cables into the slots at the back.And I nursed the cables down with one entrust whileI tighten down the silver-tongued terminal bolts with my screwdriver. Make sure those terminal jailers are certainly, certainly tighten if youre not going to loop them in different regions of the terminal bolts, okay? You can be found in theres just any copper wireshowing. I do this precise same thing for the pitch-black hotwires. They go with the brass bolt. So push them into the back of the shop, and then tighten down the brass screws.All privilege. Make sure again those terminal bolts aresuper, super tight with your screwdriver. Then the last thing that I dowell, almostthe last thingis I take my vacuum-clean, and I suck up any of the debris thats in theelectrical box simply to make sure that its safe. Push all the cables into the box. Plug your receptacle analyzer into the outlet. Turn the strength on. Be carefuldo not touch bare cables. And doublecheck that your stores wiredcorrectly.In this case, it is. Its indicated by the two yellow lights. Screw the electrical outlet to the electricalbox with the two jailers that came with the channels. There “theres going”. The outlet doesnt move. And then you are eligible to set the covering plate on. Do not overtighten the fasten to the coverplate because the cover plate will divulge. There you go. Thats how you install an electrical outlet. Really simple. Follow all the basic tips-off that I have in thistutorial, and you should be good to go. So heres the startle. Head on over to Home Repair Tutor and theresgoing to be a giveaway related to this video. So head on over to HomeRepairTutor.com. Check out the post, the tutorial associatedwith this video, and youll ensure what that stun is.So I to be expected that you liked the video. You can always subscribe to the Home RepairTutor YouTube channel. And if you dont mind, when you go overto HomeRepairTutor.com, sign up for the email newsletter because that channel, you wont missout on all my tips-off and giveaways that I have for this year. So check it out. Take care, and Ill talk to you soon ..

How to Waterproof Bathtub Drywall — by Home Repair Tutor

So do you have a water problem next to yourbathtub like this? Well if you do, Im going to be doing anexperiment today apply Schluters KERDIBAND to see if I can waterproof this drywall andprevent this from happening again. So tells dive into the video. Again, this is a total experiment, but I thinkit might work. And I was get some help from Schluterstechnical people. So Im pretty stoked to do this experiment. Lets get it on. First things firstly, what were goingto do is cut any silicone thats on top of the baseboard and the quarter round here. So Im just going to slice that. And this is just going to come right off, which is good.Now Im going to use a razor scraper tocut off any existing silicone sealant thats up against the tub surround. Now what Im going to do is start righthere and slice all the silicone thats up against the tub the whole way down becausethis is where were having a water problem. So thats what Im going to do. Not really that hard-handed. And Im just going to cut across. Now theres paper strip here. Im going to remove all that paper tape. Again Im going to run the razor scraperalong the side of the tub.This is Schluter KERDIBAND. This is waterproofing band that you usuallyuse to waterproof the KERDIBOARD. But for today were going to use it to waterproofthis section. So this is what KERDIBAND looks like. Its orange. This is 5 wide, and its waterproofingmaterial. So I cut a piece of the KERDIBAND, and whatwere going to do is just employed it right over top of the drywall here exerting unmodified thinset. So “youre seeing” I precisely cut it down to sizeso it comes out to the edge of the drywall. We only crave the thinset to be thick enoughso itll stick to a trowel or stick with a putty knife. I just wanted to make sure that I got theright piece of KERDIBAND before I start putting in the unmodified thinset. So Im going to start at the top and workmy highway down with the thinset.This is a awfully, very tight space. Oh, and the other thing I wanted to pointout to you is I couldve taken out the drywall here and supplant it with brand-new drywall. Or I couldve repaired it with cement boardand done this. But for right now, this is solid enough, soIm just going to employed thinset right over and embed the KERDIBAND. So now “theres going”. Im just going to embed the KERDIBAND. Now Im just going to embed the KERDIBANDinto the thinset. And obviously squeeze out any excess thinset. Thats what you was necessary to do. Clearly make sure you get all the thinsetoff the tub. You dont want this drying. For right now Im going to clean up theexcess thinset, let it dry, and then come back and settled seam deepen over it. But were going to let this set up and thencome back. Were on Day 2 now.The thinset has put together. And the KERDIBAND is completely dry. So what were going to do for the next stepis apply a thin membrane of settingtype joint deepen. Before you do that, though, simply make surethat any loose thinset, you wipe it off the top of the KERDIBAND and off the side ofthe tub if you have a tub surround like this one. The KERDIBAND is pretty welladhered to thelatex paint and the one of the purposes of the drywall that was damaged. Yeah, its in good shape. In such cases, Im going to be using EasySand 20, so it should set up in about 20 to 30 times. Again this is settingtype seam complex. You dont want to use premixed joint compound. Id mixed up the joint deepen to havea consistency of a dense milkshake. Itll stick to the putty knife now. Im going to use my trusty 6 knife toembed the seam combination onto the KERDIBAND.So Im just going to go up and down theKERDIBAND like so. Then what Im going to do is make my knifeand run for your lives up the drywall exactly to smooth this out even more. Were going to let that dry, be coming, sand it, and then prime it. Now if your joint complex doesnt lookabsolutely perfect, you can always leant another hair on top of it. I want to stress that this is an experiment. Knock down any high spots on your joint compoundwith your bayonet. Then you can sand it smooth working a sandingsponge, my favorite tool for sanding down seam deepen. Then you want to apply Kilz 2 Latex primerto the joint compound. Thats superduper important. I love exploiting Purdy paint cleans. Once you get all the primer on, it bone-dry, they are able to apply your latex colour. Once this dye dehydrates, Im going to runa bead of silicone sealant between the drywall and the fiberglass bathtub smother to make surethat its waterproof at that junction.Well this is my experiment on how to waterproofdrywall thats right next to a bathtub. Now ideally you would have waterproofing herealready and then tile over. But I have a fiberglass surround, so it wouldkind of simply look spooky in this case. Now this is an experiment, so I dont knowif its going to work. Ill prevent you posted on it. I just wanted to do this and see how it turnsout. Let me know what your thoughts are in thecomments here on YouTube or over on Home Repair Tutor.I actually want to get your feedback on thisone. But Ill certainly let you know how itgoes. All liberty, thanks for watching the video. Take care. Ill talk to you soon. So as a side greenback, my new renters are movingin in about 10 dates. So thats why I wanted to fix this ASAP. Theyre awesome chaps. Im provoked to have them on board. Being a landlord is not easy. And finding really great tenants, thatseven harder. Trust me. Ive had really bad holders before. So these people Im provoked to have. Wes, Dan, you guys are awesome ..

Build Curbless Walk In Shower on Concrete Floor (Part 1: Tips to Make Shower Pan)

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