In todays video were going to show youhow to waterproof the walls of a curbless shower environment. Now, what made this particularlychallenging was the fact that theres a space inside the shower. But we exploited HYDROBAN Board to simplify this process and see the walls 100% waterproof.Were going to install HYDRO BAN Board as our backer board, which is essentially a waterproofboard made by Laticrete.One of the great aspects about this is, first off, itsalready waterproof. So, you install this, you just have to address where you put yourscrews and then your seams and everythings waterproof. But the other nice thing is thatthe entire core of this is waterproof as well. So if you nick the surface of this, yourenot going to damage the stability of the waterproofing. So just as long as you dont go all theway through the members of the commission, youre still going to be safe. To me, that really affords a lotof extra confidence in it. A batch of different situations where you can actually puncturethis membrane and, you are well aware, expressed concerns about it leaking.Whereas being able to knowthat as long as you dont go all the way through the members of the commission, then its still goingto be waterproof. So emphatically a fast, easy method to install.But the first thing you want to do, again, is the VIM pan. You time employed a charitable beadof the HYDRO BAN sealant, and it is basically precisely to adhere that card to the pan. Andyou simply need to use the clamps that are provided with the HYDRO BAN Board. You time want tosmooth this. Smooth it out. For such projects, the timber ornaments were 16 on middle, and we arranged a bolt every 12 on core along the stud to support the board.Instead of squander all this extra material here, have effectively just going to go aheadand install this on the top and the fill in the sides because that will basically takeup a entire sheet, there are still really no reason to cut that much.So were just going to measure to the top of our framing now from underneath.Thats1 6 7/8. Its the same, Im pretty sure, 16 7/8. Okay, and then you just take theutility knife and cut this. As you can see, its very easy to cut throughthe HYDRO BAN Board. You exactly need a utility knife, and thats pretty much it. Clearly, you can also an oscillating multitool, but its not necessary unless you want to dosome refined slice. For instance, now on this board, were going to be using an oscillatingmultitool to attain the HYDRO BAN Board even with the framing.Okay, so in order to meet two timbers together like that, you want to made a bead of the sealantto the top and foot. Again, its very important to use the sealantbetween neighboring HYDRO BAN Boards and to smooth that out and to use the right type of screws.You cant exactly use any screw.Here were using out multitool again to refine our cutup against the window framing. That facilitates out a lot.Before any of this cools along the bottom here, its not a bad notion to feather thisout. Smoothing out the HYDRO BAN sealant is importantbecause it can is in conflict with your tile naming. Now were just snapping a chalk word andcutting the members of the commission to size exploiting a practicality knife. We precisely need to fill in this one lastslot on the righthand side of this opening wall.Using HYDRO BAN Board obliges waterproofing around the window so much easier versus cementboard. Again, where the board fills the board, puta pendant. So again, were just applying that sealant.Were putting our card in place and using the title clamps that should be bought alongwith the HYDRO BAN Board.So now were just adding a board to thetop of the last board that we lay, and were trimming it to size to be flush withthe window sill. So again, you can see how easy it is to use the HYDRO BAN Board to waterproofaround the window in the shower. This isnt ideal. You shouldnt genuinely have a showerwith a opening in it, but nonetheless, sometimes you cant do anything about that, and itsjust part of the home.So having HYDRO BAN Board realizes it so much simpler.Here were just getting our final assessment for the plumbing wall and trimming our boardsto width to fit around the plumbing fixtures. Really get a marking on the hose here. We canjust use a practicality knife to cut a small circle around that, or you can use a paddle fragment too.The neat thing about these thick-witted sud councils, they can easily simply stigmatizing where my valveis and simply make a nice cut are consistent with that. Okay, before you threw this in, only make sureyou get a bead of caulking on your VIM pan and too down on your region here.And I would keep your first sequence of fucks above the floor.You dont want to pinch this all the way down to where this is going to kind of beoff the go. As Steve illustrated, were including the firstset of fucks about 4 above the VIM pan so that the board doesnt bellow inward.And were checking that the board is plumb with our 4 grade, and then adding the screwsper the HYDRO BAN Board attitudes. If you do that, youre going to have a successfulinstallation of the waterproofing cards on the wall.Here were going measurementson the left and the right of the shower pan, and were just cutting a pit into the boardusing a paddle fragment. And that will ensure that our shower appendage hose will fit through thereproperly. So again, were just adding our sealant both on the top of the board and tothe contiguou timbers on the central wall. Were putting our timber in palace and then usingour clamps to get the board nice and redden with the adjacent drywall thats inthis shower. You can see how quickly it is to use the HYDRO BAN Board on the plumbingwall.Here were doing the exact same method onthe wall antonym that. So again, its a very quick installation. And if youre usingthe claim shafts and the claim technique, this is going to be 100% waterproof, and itsgoing to be a particularly, very quick installation for you. The main thing is to remember toalways smooth out the sealant that exudes out between the members of the commission and between the VIM showerpan.Thats really important for your tile setting.Okay, so around this space, obviously a window is not an ideal feature to throw in your shower.Just saying that on the basis that, you know, you got an area where the outside of the windowis created waterproof so water doesnt come in, but a doublehung window was never reallydesigned to keep water out from the inside. So what we do is pretty much do the best thatwe can to waterproof against this, basically eliminating any clevernes for the water to getout into the sill area. Well precisely use a HYDRO BAN Board to go around that and usingthe sealant to go up against the window. Bottom sill in first.So its not too a bad project to sit this in now and just see how level or not levelit is because you really want, when this is sucked down, you miss this to kind of, especiallythe bottom sill, to pitch towards the shower so that any irrigate that collisions this is goingto go into the shower.So precisely made to ensure that your framing is slightly created to slopeinward. If its not, a room that you can address this, which this is, what you cando is use thinset underneath this and slope it towards the shower. But its usuallyideal, if you can help it, to create the framing so that it automatically slopes toward theshower. So situated a dot on your committee, and then wellput a big, nice pellet against this opening and mostly press the board into it to whereits gushing out from that window hole. So you could see that oozing up out of thatwindow sill. Thats what we want. You want to make sure that this is completely watertight to that. Ill go ahead and articulated our two clamps in.So Im simply actually precisely drawing this away from the window because I dont want tosmear up against the window. Then were going to have tile that comes up 3/8, butthis stuff probably wont come off the window very easily. So I kind of press it down. Andif you can, use a factory edge up against the window; its going to be a lot flatterup against the window.If not, just make sure its a neat, straight fringe. So we introduced anice beading against this space again, get down along the basi of your HYDRO BAN Board, andgo up along where the other board fulfills. Smooth out any of your sealant.As you can see here, were addressing the sealant to the window itself, along the bottom, and along the HYDRO BAN Board. Were including our little committee now to the righthand side, were screwing it in place, and were cutting it down consuming our MultiMaster. Thenwere smoothing out any of the sealant that oozes out between the window and the members of the commission; thats really important for your tile setting. So again were just applying the sealantalong the bound to the top of the framing there. Were computing our timber, screwingit in place. And trimming it down with the multitool. So its really important toget these committees even with the contiguou timbers that are around the window.As you can seehere, the next step is to seal all the screws and seams.Okay, so once you get all the board hung, then you need to go back over all your seamsin the regions and the fuckings. So just go ahead and do the recess firstly. Precisely basicallya neat, magnanimous ball facilitating down that corner. All the way down to the bottom. And then youcan use a little corner trowel.I mean you can use a regular putty knife as well on bothsides, but a plastic area trowel certainly helps get everything neat and tighten. And ituses a little less sealant if you were to do it the other way. So, every fucking holepatch over. And then you might kept a beading across your seams.And then you could see how we kind of overcut this defect. Well, were going to make sureits center for one. But you could just easily add a little bit of sealant there andkind of bridge more of that excavation. Okay, then I would go across all of your windowseams as well. As you can see, were requesting a neat beadof the sealant around the perimeter of the window and likewise remove any of the stickersthat are on the board. You dont want to leave this on the board because itll interferewith the tile adjusting. And then find all the screws that are in the HYDRO BAN Board.Also, if you do have any fastens that you had to remove, you want to add sealant around those.So again here, were just working on our window, spawning sure all that sealant is niceand flat against the members of the commission. Same thing with all the sealant thats around the screwsand the pin holes that you missed because the sealant needs to be flat in order foryou to be able to set your tile the right way. The sealant could perhaps interfere withyour tile name, it is therefore actually, really important to have that as flat as possibleand flush with the surface of the board. So pay special attention to all your screws.You dont want to miss those because recollect, any invasion through the HYDRO BAN Boardis a point where it could seep into the stud bay.And around your Grohe flange you can seal to your roughin valve, which is such an awesomecapability with this type of roughin valve.Because what youll do is youll tileeverything and then youll trimmed thus flange off flush with the tile. But being able tocompletely waterproof around this is really nice because most valves youre precisely relyingon that escutcheon plate sitting against the tile. So like were going to be doing subwaytile here, and subway tile has all these different grout joints. So the escutcheon slab neversits nicely against the grout brace. But knowing that this is now 100% waterproof behind there, I know that nothings going to get behind that wall when the irrigate is hitting the backof your shower valve. So certainly a neat feature employing that Grohe system.So an added feature, this is probably overkill in a way, but this is something thats recommendedand not a bad notion to do, is basically all the regions going around the window, weregoing to use some cement timber tape.You know, this is an alkali resistant tape, and basicallyjust reinforce these areas. But since this is a little bit wet, its going to be easyto embed this mesh. So again, you want to use alkali resistanttape. This is the same tape that you would use for cement board. So you can just grabit at your local residence accumulate. And the reason why were putting this over top of the HYDROBAN thats inside the window is for us to give more inflexibility to that area.And alsoto reduce any occasion that there is nothing to going to be expansion and contraction that couldadversely affect the tile rectifying. So Steve will mention his thoughts on this particularstep in the process of waterproofing around the window. You know, its something thatLaticrete does recommend. So at this quality were doing it because of their recommendations.And its actually the sealant that helps that alkali resistant mesh ligament to the HYDRO BANBoard. So the more sealant you have, the more that thats going to bond.So this reces mesh that were putting in this window sill, this is to Laticretesrecommendation to do this. Definitely not a bad mind. Clearly reinforces the corners.Its going to form ensuring that any shrinkage or anything that goes in between the boardsisnt going to create a gap. Overall, its a good project. But putting this reces meshis a real pain. My feeling is that the mesh is a little bit of an overkill, but not abad meaning. But it is a little bit frustrating to get delicately close-fisted to this corner becauseyou really want to have everything neat and tight.You dont want to have a bunch ofbubbles sticking out because its going to make all your tile work harder to get aroundit. So you really want to try to keep everything as close-fisted as possible.So this is kind of another overkill impression now, but youre actually employing exactly resealthis, but were actually going to be arrange a mantle of the mesh waterproofing in the corners.But this will simply be an added seam of shelter. In another video, were going to show youhow to use the mesh that came with the VIM pan together with HYDRO BARRIER to completelywaterproof the pan and the shower flooring. So again, in another video were going toshow you how to do that. Okay, and then if you have additional sealantto use, if you want to address the drywall seam now Now, you want to be careful thatyoure not going to come outside of your tile work.Basically were going to be comingout 30 so were mostly a outside of where our modulation is. But if youreconcerned about this area, you can always merely use some of the sealant right on thatseam. Where your shower entrances are going to be, this really isnt going to be a wetarea because your shower doors “il go to” probably be another inch inside. So itsreally up to you. It truly depends whether you have enough sealant to go over this seam.But I wouldnt certainly consider it a critical area, but not a bad feeling precisely to crowd thatarea.Smoothing the sealant in this area is importantbecause you dont want it to interfere with the installation of your shower doors or withthe tile that will overlap the HYDRO BAN Board and the border drywall. So again, justsmooth it down with your putty knife, and you should be good to go.This curbless shower turned out immense. We actually exploited metro tile on the walls anda marble mosaic on the shower go. If you want to see how we tiles this shower, weregoing to articulated all those videos inside the Bathroom Repair Tutor video library. You can clickright here to verify that out for yourself. Itll obviously help you simplify the craftof structure a custom-built lavatory. Thanks for watching our tutorial today. Ifyou have any questions, let us know, and united be more than happy to help you out. Take care !.