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How to Install the Best Door Sweep for Exterior Doors

Hey there. I’m Jeff with Home Repair Tutor, and in this video I’m going to share with you how to replace your doorway wipe. Now whydo you want to do this? Well, a doorway broom is the simplest thing that you can do to yourentry door or to your exterior doorway that will help lower your heating and cooling bills.So that’s a good reason to make love, right? And it doesn’t cost very much money2 0 max.So let’s get to it, and before you know it, you’re going to learn how to do this simplerepair and your heating and cooling monies will be much lower. Let’s get started.As you can see here, my entryway is besieged with snow. So I it is necessary applied a entrance scope onthis entryway doorway that goes into our garage. Now here’s the batch. This is the best doorsweep in my view. Now you can challenge this on the comments section, but it’s a Ushapedor Uchannel door wipe that you can put on the bottom of the door.And it’s got lipson it so that it protects the full margin of your doorboth on the inside and the outside.I know I needed this doorway embroil because, well, there’s sun coming in from underneath it.And I taken away from the aged one in the summer. To position a Ushaped door move, you shouldremove the door from the hinges. You can use a tack rectify and a hammer to do that. Just placethe nail specify underneath the bolt and sound it with the hammer.If you can’t attract the bolt out by hand, you can use a duo of path fastenings or pliersto snatch it outkind of like a tooth. Oh, and by the way, I wanted to give you ahot tip. Keep the door in the closed positionso, in the door jamwhen you draw the pins.It’s so much easier to do it that way.Now I could remove the door and target it onthe storey Good thing I chew my Wheaties today, right? So there are three things that it is required to dothree thingsbefore you buy a brand-new doorsweep. Number one, you need to pick out a doorway expanse that will accommodate the gap betweenthe bottom of your opening and the top of the threshold. So in such cases, it was about 7/16 of an inch. The second calculation that you need is the width of the door. So in thiscase, it’s about 32 inches. The third measurement that you need is the thickness of the door.So in this case, my doorway thickness is about 1 inches thick.You could use some diameter to cut your doorway scope to size. Or you could dry fit the doorsweep onto the bottom of the door. And precisely commemorate where you need to cut it.Now you can use a hacksaw and a miter box to cut the door sweep.The one thing I’m going to do to make sure that this installation is really good andgoing to be super secure is add a bead of caulk to the bottom of the door.That room, the door sweep will stick to the caulk. And I’m going to screw it downI’m going toshow you that next. Place this bead of caulk herea delightful, thick bead that’s big enoughsuch that it will touch is not simply the bottom of the door but the top of the door sweep.Okay, the next step is to make sure that when you arrange your entrance extent onto the bottomof the door, the holes for the screwings are going to be on the inside portion of the door, or thein other wordsinterior portion of the door that will be inside your house.So residence the door sweep into the bottom of the door, and just lightly sounds it into placewith your hand. And because this is a metal door, I’m going to predrill some holes intoit. Anywhere that there’s a defect in the door sweep, make sure that you predrill. So here, down now, down now … And if you need an extrahole, like I do right here, just go ahead and instruct one right through the door sweep.And that style you’ll have an extra bolt on the leading edge where you need it.Now the second thing I’m going to do is drill holes into the bottom of the door sweep becausethere’s already caulk in the center.What I want to do is have fuckings go through thatcaulk and secure the bottom of the sweep to the door.So again, anywhere there’s a flaw on the side of the door, I’m going to put one on the bottomso that they partner up and really, certainly make this door sweep super secure.Now all you need to do is add your shafts starting from the center and making yourway outward to both sides of the door. Oh, as a area memorandum, I’m employ 3/4 inch no. 6 metal screwspin front clamps. Once you’re done appending all those screwsto the side of the door, supplemented the fuckings to the bottom of the door sweep.Okay , now all you have to do is articulated the door back in placeeasier said than done, right? All right.Looks like it labours. Lookings like the door sweep jobs and it’s maintaining allthe cold aura from coming underneath the door and into the house.Well there you have it. That’s the best door clean that I think you could put one over your entrydoor or exterior door. Let me know what you think in the comments, but again, it’s a Ushapeddoor sweep. And I like it because, peculiarly if you got a metal door like this one or evena grove door, it protects both the interior and the exterior fraction of the door so thatit doesn’t corrode or simply waste away over day because of the elements outsidelikerain and snow. So let me know what you think in the commentssection. And if “youve been” own hot gratuities, please add them there because we all want to learnas a DIY group. And remember, if you haven’t already doneso, you can join me over on YouTube. Are contributing to my YouTube channel. And you can sign upfor my email newsletter over at HomeRepairTutor.com’ induce every single week you’re going to geta new tip that’s going to help you save money, go, and again, retain, prevent you frombeing overtook when you do your own DIY project.So until the next video, I hope you have a great day.And I’ll talk to you soon .[ Outtakes] Well, there you have it. That’s what I thinkis the best kind of door scope to put one across your enter doorway or yourthe door isn’t closed.< giggles> Woo! It was like 6 when I started, but nowit’s warming up. I didn’t even reduce this morning’ generate I wanted to preserve some facialheat ..

How to Wire an Elecrical Outlet (Important Tips) — by Home Repair Tutor

Hey, everyone! Today Im going to show you wire an electricaloutlet or install an electrical outlet. This is for my friend, Denise, and your best friend, Heather. They recently asked me to do this tutorial. So guess what, here it is. So Ive got a special surprise for you atthe end. Stay chanted, and I hope you enjoy this. So gives jump into it. Grab yourself a tour analyzer or a receptacleanalyzer like this one now because it will tell you whether or not your store is wiredthe right way. So plug it into the outlet, and look at thetwo flames that are yellow. That indicates that it is in fact cabled properly. Then go ahead and turn the electric off atthe panel of fuse box. Grab yourself your noncontact voltage sensor. Doublecheck the electrical is off. And you can see how this outlet is jiggling. Its a nono. and Im going to show howto fix that next. So you can take the outlet window-dressing off. And you be seen to what extent the outlet moves back andforth? Grab yourself or go out and buy some of theseplastic implants, these plastic spacers.You can fold them over themselves, and thenput them down over the fucks on the top and the bottom of your outlet nails that attachthe channel to the electrical chest. And what thatll do is provide a spacerso that the shop will not wiggle. In this case, the box wiggles a little. Now if you have an outlet that has the tabspainted over, you can score the invoices with a utility pierce. That route, the outlet will not tear the paintoff the wall. Again, doublecheck that the electric is offwith the voltage tester. Pull the outlet out with your hands usingthe tabs.Then as you can see here, I want to show youthe insularity is stripped off too much from these cables. The insularity, when its stripped off toomuch, it discloses too much copper, and the copper wire could touch the electrical box, creating an electrical problem. All liberty. So what is necessary do first is unwire thehotwires. Again, now I wanted to show you something. The wire loop-the-loop isnt properly looped, andthats risky because the hotwire couldve came off the terminal screw. Then erase the terminal bolts that hold thewhite neutral wires onto the outlets. There “theres going”. And then the last thing you want to do isunwire the anchor wire. Again, only counterclockwise, turn that screw, and then pull the sand cable off the outlet. The next stair is to choose the correct kindof outlet.So in such cases, I have a 15 A store. Im going to replace it with, you guessedit, a 15 A store. I chose to get a Pass& Seymour 15 A tamperresistantoutlet. And these days, you should always buy a tamperresistantoutlet, specially if “youve had” kids. And a great deal of regional codes require it. So make sure you check your neighbourhood code. Now “theres going”. Heres the channel. There are the brass bolts. Nows the back of the store where youcan push the wires into it. And then you have your silver screwing for yourneutral cables. And then your light-green foot nail. Now in such cases, I wanted to show you theresa little strip gage on the side of the outlet.This is really handy because what you cando is put your wires up against that piece gage, and you are eligible to trimmed them to size or youcan divest the insularity off according to the gage. Once you do that for one wire, you are eligible to simplyjust give the wire up against all the other ones and strip off the suitable amountof insulation. So as you can see here, there “theres going”. My neutral wire is appropriately sized, andthen I precisely cut both my hotwires to the same size as my neutral wire.I wanted to show you this. Inside the electrical chest, you have your groundwires. They should all be pigtailed together andthen have another wire coming out of that pigtail. So there you go. Theres the wire nut, and theres thepigtail. Take some emery cloth and wipe all the barecopper wires with the emery cloth. That road you can be certain that youregoing to get great electrical contact with the bare copper wires, and that youre goingto have a really good contact with your channel. So wire up the anchor cable firstly to the greenterminal pin. Make sure its looped around clockwise. Then tightened down that dark-green terminal pin. The next wires that I like to wire up arethe neutral wires, and they go with the silver terminal nails. So slackened the terminal screwings by turning themcounterclockwise. And in such cases, for this Pass& Seymouroutlet, I precisely propagandized the cables into the slots at the back.And I nursed the cables down with one entrust whileI tighten down the silver-tongued terminal bolts with my screwdriver. Make sure those terminal jailers are certainly, certainly tighten if youre not going to loop them in different regions of the terminal bolts, okay? You can be found in theres just any copper wireshowing. I do this precise same thing for the pitch-black hotwires. They go with the brass bolt. So push them into the back of the shop, and then tighten down the brass screws.All privilege. Make sure again those terminal bolts aresuper, super tight with your screwdriver. Then the last thing that I dowell, almostthe last thingis I take my vacuum-clean, and I suck up any of the debris thats in theelectrical box simply to make sure that its safe. Push all the cables into the box. Plug your receptacle analyzer into the outlet. Turn the strength on. Be carefuldo not touch bare cables. And doublecheck that your stores wiredcorrectly.In this case, it is. Its indicated by the two yellow lights. Screw the electrical outlet to the electricalbox with the two jailers that came with the channels. There “theres going”. The outlet doesnt move. And then you are eligible to set the covering plate on. Do not overtighten the fasten to the coverplate because the cover plate will divulge. There you go. Thats how you install an electrical outlet. Really simple. Follow all the basic tips-off that I have in thistutorial, and you should be good to go. So heres the startle. Head on over to Home Repair Tutor and theresgoing to be a giveaway related to this video. So head on over to HomeRepairTutor.com. Check out the post, the tutorial associatedwith this video, and youll ensure what that stun is.So I to be expected that you liked the video. You can always subscribe to the Home RepairTutor YouTube channel. And if you dont mind, when you go overto HomeRepairTutor.com, sign up for the email newsletter because that channel, you wont missout on all my tips-off and giveaways that I have for this year. So check it out. Take care, and Ill talk to you soon ..

How to Waterproof Bathtub Drywall — by Home Repair Tutor

So do you have a water problem next to yourbathtub like this? Well if you do, Im going to be doing anexperiment today apply Schluters KERDIBAND to see if I can waterproof this drywall andprevent this from happening again. So tells dive into the video. Again, this is a total experiment, but I thinkit might work. And I was get some help from Schluterstechnical people. So Im pretty stoked to do this experiment. Lets get it on. First things firstly, what were goingto do is cut any silicone thats on top of the baseboard and the quarter round here. So Im just going to slice that. And this is just going to come right off, which is good.Now Im going to use a razor scraper tocut off any existing silicone sealant thats up against the tub surround. Now what Im going to do is start righthere and slice all the silicone thats up against the tub the whole way down becausethis is where were having a water problem. So thats what Im going to do. Not really that hard-handed. And Im just going to cut across. Now theres paper strip here. Im going to remove all that paper tape. Again Im going to run the razor scraperalong the side of the tub.This is Schluter KERDIBAND. This is waterproofing band that you usuallyuse to waterproof the KERDIBOARD. But for today were going to use it to waterproofthis section. So this is what KERDIBAND looks like. Its orange. This is 5 wide, and its waterproofingmaterial. So I cut a piece of the KERDIBAND, and whatwere going to do is just employed it right over top of the drywall here exerting unmodified thinset. So “youre seeing” I precisely cut it down to sizeso it comes out to the edge of the drywall. We only crave the thinset to be thick enoughso itll stick to a trowel or stick with a putty knife. I just wanted to make sure that I got theright piece of KERDIBAND before I start putting in the unmodified thinset. So Im going to start at the top and workmy highway down with the thinset.This is a awfully, very tight space. Oh, and the other thing I wanted to pointout to you is I couldve taken out the drywall here and supplant it with brand-new drywall. Or I couldve repaired it with cement boardand done this. But for right now, this is solid enough, soIm just going to employed thinset right over and embed the KERDIBAND. So now “theres going”. Im just going to embed the KERDIBAND. Now Im just going to embed the KERDIBANDinto the thinset. And obviously squeeze out any excess thinset. Thats what you was necessary to do. Clearly make sure you get all the thinsetoff the tub. You dont want this drying. For right now Im going to clean up theexcess thinset, let it dry, and then come back and settled seam deepen over it. But were going to let this set up and thencome back. Were on Day 2 now.The thinset has put together. And the KERDIBAND is completely dry. So what were going to do for the next stepis apply a thin membrane of settingtype joint deepen. Before you do that, though, simply make surethat any loose thinset, you wipe it off the top of the KERDIBAND and off the side ofthe tub if you have a tub surround like this one. The KERDIBAND is pretty welladhered to thelatex paint and the one of the purposes of the drywall that was damaged. Yeah, its in good shape. In such cases, Im going to be using EasySand 20, so it should set up in about 20 to 30 times. Again this is settingtype seam complex. You dont want to use premixed joint compound. Id mixed up the joint deepen to havea consistency of a dense milkshake. Itll stick to the putty knife now. Im going to use my trusty 6 knife toembed the seam combination onto the KERDIBAND.So Im just going to go up and down theKERDIBAND like so. Then what Im going to do is make my knifeand run for your lives up the drywall exactly to smooth this out even more. Were going to let that dry, be coming, sand it, and then prime it. Now if your joint complex doesnt lookabsolutely perfect, you can always leant another hair on top of it. I want to stress that this is an experiment. Knock down any high spots on your joint compoundwith your bayonet. Then you can sand it smooth working a sandingsponge, my favorite tool for sanding down seam deepen. Then you want to apply Kilz 2 Latex primerto the joint compound. Thats superduper important. I love exploiting Purdy paint cleans. Once you get all the primer on, it bone-dry, they are able to apply your latex colour. Once this dye dehydrates, Im going to runa bead of silicone sealant between the drywall and the fiberglass bathtub smother to make surethat its waterproof at that junction.Well this is my experiment on how to waterproofdrywall thats right next to a bathtub. Now ideally you would have waterproofing herealready and then tile over. But I have a fiberglass surround, so it wouldkind of simply look spooky in this case. Now this is an experiment, so I dont knowif its going to work. Ill prevent you posted on it. I just wanted to do this and see how it turnsout. Let me know what your thoughts are in thecomments here on YouTube or over on Home Repair Tutor.I actually want to get your feedback on thisone. But Ill certainly let you know how itgoes. All liberty, thanks for watching the video. Take care. Ill talk to you soon. So as a side greenback, my new renters are movingin in about 10 dates. So thats why I wanted to fix this ASAP. Theyre awesome chaps. Im provoked to have them on board. Being a landlord is not easy. And finding really great tenants, thatseven harder. Trust me. Ive had really bad holders before. So these people Im provoked to have. Wes, Dan, you guys are awesome ..

Build Curbless Walk In Shower on Concrete Floor (Part 1: Tips to Make Shower Pan)

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How to Install Schluter KERDI-BOARD in a Bathroom Part 1 (Step-by-Step)

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I AM HUMAN TRASH | House Flipper #1

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Chainsaw Wont Start? Chainsaw Repair How To – GardenFork

Chainsaw will not start gain knowledge of easy methods to fix it proper right here keep tuned whats up each person welcome backyard fork i’m Eric Racha this can be a garden fork rapid tip we will name this one does your chainsaw now not going for walks has your chainsaw sat all iciness and you’re pondering I’ve obtained to wash up that particles in the back there that’s happening to me right now I received a few chainsaws and neither considered one of them needs to start and i am considering I must give it like a quickie tune-up and there is two matters that you can do particularly conveniently to help this factor higher and that is to alter the spark plug and alter out the gasoline ok so we will exhibit you to vary spark plug alternate out the gasoline to start with get this kind of turkey baster things ask permission first from the character who possesses the turkey base for the duration of your household you want to open up your fuel here suck out all of the gas it’s in definitely the gasoline oil blend take this all out put it into a gas safe container then get your self anything that measures obviously exactly one gallon like a milk jug don’t retailer gas on this but you would fill this up to the one gallon mark pour into a gas riskless container then get recent oil I quite like these these are these squeezy matters so you can have the measuring right here and it says for one gallon it at fifty to one which is most chainsaws it’s 2.6 ounces so you squeeze the backside and the top Oh loosen the cap here the top fills up like that beautiful neat correct I imply that’s way an excessive amount of but that you could it’s type of like a magic eight-ball the way in which you progress it back and forth anyway it can be 2.6 oz to a gallon of gas is a 50 to 1 ratio k clean oil smooth fuel take the historic gas out of here you have to shake it around use the turkey baster on account that there may be a line that goes from the tank up into the engine right here you wish to have to get that out as best that you could 2nd factor you wish to have to do is exchange the spark plug on this the spark plug on these we’ll have to take off these outer cowlings to do it so i am chainsaws the spark plug is relatively obvious it is this black wire that goes the spark plug here we go let me exhibit you on this one methods to get to the spark plug this is the air filter on this one you supply this a little turn and then this slides up and that covers the air filter this air filter wishes to be cleaned that you can either purchase a replacement one or clean it off that you can take a stiff brush easy these off or go buy a substitute oh don’t get this down there in the throat duvet the throat the carburetor throat with some tape and which you can smooth this area up you don’t want any particles happening in there that is a foul factor outer duvet comes off like that here is your spark plug this can be a three quarter and spark plug wrench I purchased a set of three spark plug socket wrenches makes like lots less difficult when you consider that there’s distinct sizes yeah that is pretty that’s lovely credit up go right down to your local retailer get your new spark plug k don’t over-tighten this form and then a little tight like that recollect to switch this very foremost spark plug wire all proper right here we go time to go begin work incidentally if you are like what you see in right here click on the subscribe button we received a bunch of DIY cooking gardening videos videos of the Labradors for those who like that kind of factor and we also have a whole web site of cool pictures and how-to stuff like that garden for tv in case you prefer to signal up for our electronic mail factor electronic mail factor e mail publication ship an e-mail to news at garden fork tv or click on on the hyperlink beneath and in case you wanted to e-mail me it can be Eric at garden fork television we’re on each social media community they’ve invented we’re on Google Pinterest fb you already know there may be so all of them something it is we’re there just form in garden for Popeye to find us all proper right here we go incidentally we have now made some other garden floor movies about chainsaw safeguard and methods to curb trees tips on how to reduce fire logs that sort of thing which you can click on the hyperlinks here click on the hyperlinks below and watch these as good numerous enjoyable Eric chainsaw vigor tools

Gas stove burner repair. A DIY home repair for everybody

Right here in this video i’ll make restore on a gasoline range burner. A fuel range burner is an extraordinarily long-established kitchen appliance to be had at each house. I am working on this fuel range burner. As the correct hand side burner is faulty and it is not getting on at all. The left hand aspect larger burner I repaired just a few days again and now it’s working good. Before it was also unhealthy and it refused to work. We will make restore on the smaller burner as it’s faulty.Their main issue is normal most commonly. They’ve most often defective valve in them. These valves are normally referred to as rail cock. This valve is established right here under this knob. At the same time we are rotating to this knob, actually we’re controlling the fuel variety from this knob. We will be able to change the valve along with the knob because the valve is faulty and the knob can be damaged. We will be able to be installing the new valve and the brand new knob. These valves and knobs are low cost and low price alternative constituents which you could purchase each for a $ from any fuel home equipment retailer.The precaution even as installing a new valve is you will have to smooth the entire grease lubrication from the inside of the valve. You must smooth the gasoline passage utilising a rag. For the cleaning you will have to put the valve in the on function and then cut a section of rag. Now the valve is in open role and the gasoline passage manner is now opened. You will have to put the rag throughout the fuel passage and rotate it making use of a small screw driver to make it absolutely cleaned. With the aid of rotating you could smooth the interior of the valve and will clear the gasoline passage from the grease. If the grease will likely be there inside the gasoline passages, it’ll avoid the go with the flow of gasoline to the burner. And you’ll no longer be competent to manipulate the gas therefore is not going to control the flame. You will have to smooth the other gas port additionally to make it perfect cleansing. So via this way you are going to smooth the whole gas passage which is the proven distinct field from the inside. On the entrance of this gas valve there is a nozzle with small aperture.That is making the fuel go with the flow in a twig pattern. That nozzle as you will see that shouldn’t be there with this valve. We will reuse the nozzle from the prevailing valve from the burner. The older nozzle can do the job with perfection. That you would be able to even use a brand new nozzle as good. You may want some normal tools to do the job. To begin with we should cast off the knob from the valve. For the knob removing we must cast off its screw utilising a small screw driver. Bring this screw on your front and then free it utilizing the small screw driver. The screw you can find in this new valve unit.This screw you’ll will dispose of from the existing one the old valve. The way is we can bring the knob screw in our front and then unscrew it making use of a small screw driver. As you will find now the screw is grabbed by way of the screw driver and we can unscrew it with no trouble. Bring the screw within the down role once more and wiggle the knob somewhat to dispose of it from the valve shaft.For the valve elimination you will have to unscrew the nut right here. This nut is protecting the valve in the burner. Utilising a big dimension pliers you could unscrew this nut readily. Get rid of the nut when it’s absolutely unscrewed. The you will have to get rid of this pipe and burner meeting. Often there are two screws there you will have to unscrew them to get rid of this burner part. The older valve had been are available in pieces.Make house within the pipe and rail. This may occasionally need adequate force to do it. Use your mussels drive to create space for the valve removal. You should make the ample house so that you are going to be competent to put on the new valve in. Now un thread the present or historic valve from this pipe. Use your tools if required. Unscrew the older valve with care so that nothing should breakdown. Use you palms or your tools to unscrew the older valve. By using this manner that you would be able to put off the older are current valve from this pipe rail. Here is that nozzle with the small aperture which is required to be shifted to the next new valve. For this cause unscrew it from the older and screw it within the new valve unit.Look on the aperture and it will have to be open. If now then make it open by means of cleansing it utilizing a small screw driver or a drill bit. Use a tread or Teflon tape to make the treads gas tight. Screw the nozzle on the new valve with care and tight it up using a pliers. There is no significant strain on this nozzle which have a fear but in any case just a little care is excellent anyways. The small screw and nut also you will have to remove from the valve. On the opposite valve port additionally you will have to make treading. So that it is going to provide a leakage free contact with the pipe rail. We will be able to care for the leakage so that it’s going to preclude any fuel wastage. Make this new valve threaded in the pipe rail. Take care to make leakage free connection. Gently tight the brand new valve within the pipe rail. Don’t over tight it or do not preserve it free. Now’s the time to fix this valve in its place. You will have to furnish adequate force to repair it in its location. Now put on the nut and tight it to cozy the valve in its position.Use the pliers to tight then nut. Repair the knot on the valve shaft and at ease it with the small screw. Now fix the elements which had been eliminated in the course of dis assembly of the burner. On these two holes we can repair two small nut bolts to secure this section to the burner. Down side fix the pipe on the nozzle in order that it should take gasoline from the nozzle. Without these nut bolts or screws even we are able to test and use the range or burner. All the parts we will put on their places. I will exhibit you the trying out of the unit with the new valve fixed. For trying out we should open the gas valve first. Then switch on the burner manage valve to on function. Now the range or burner works very properly. Also we are able to control the flame from the knob..

How to Build a Walk-In Shower (Part 2: Wedi Panels)(Step-by-Step) — by Home Repair Tutor

If you want to learn how to build a walk-inshower, then youre in the right place. This is my walk-in shower. I personally loveit because its easy to clean. You just walk right in. Theres no tripping overcurbs or tubs. Its phenomenal. Its our dream bathroom that we saved up to remodel.Now heres the deal: In todays video, youre going to see how to build a walk-inshower using the Wedi building panels. They go on your framing, then you put your tileover top of that. And the reason why were showing you this is because we feel like youcan do this yourself. If youre a DIYer or if youre professional, we know thatyou can use the Wedi building panels. So were going to show you how to buildout the walk-in shower today. If you missed our first video, you can watch I right here.Thatll show you how to install the Wedi Ligno shower pan, which is pre-sloped andeasy to install.So right now, lets dive into this video. Well show you how to builda walk-in shower step by step. We did this in less than 6 hours, and we know that youcan do it yourself. So lets do it. Okay, so our back wall with our bench is 5. So were going to have to go ahead and cut this first panel around the bench.You just want to measure down to that dado joint off the top of the bench. So I got 20.It will measure to 12 3/8. So I always just cut my cut mark here.I just use a chalkline. Just score this with a knife. What we do is we fill this dado joint with the Wedisealant, and be very generous with this because thats going to be your major waterproofarea here. So you basically just squeeze that into place.You want to put your first screws from the bottom of the pan. You want to be about 12away from the bottom. And the main reason for this is keeps this joint nice and tight.Because you dont want to screw this in and have this deflecting in and then pullingaway from your dado joint. So about 12 is usually pretty good for that first rowof screws. And then after that every 12. And you want to tighten these washers to thepoint that the washers indent into the Wedi, just kind of like a drywall screw. You wantto just have it recessing. One nice thing about the Wedi: If you missthe stud for any reason, youre just going to be able to apply some sealant over thathole, and itll be waterproof. So about every 12. And then when we do the nextpanel, well be pinching them both together with the washer.One thing that I did want to mention is there is no front and back to the Wedi buildingpanel.But when you see the Wedi wording on it, that gives you orientation. So wellshow you the top and the bottom, the left and right. So when you make a cut, if yousee the Wedi wording on the front, at least you know the right orientation of your cutsand whether or not they are on top or on the bottom. Now what Steve is doing here is applyingthe Wedi sealant on the top of the first panel. Thats critical to create a waterproof seam.Now hes puncturing the back of that first panel to indicate where the hole is for thepipe coming out of the wall and then cutting that hole using a 1 spade bit.We kindof forgot that the pipe was in the wall, and we applied the sealant. So we had to applythe second time to make sure that that seam is 100% waterproof.So yeah, so that really makes it easy to be able to figure out where your hole is justby puncturing back the membrane and then cutting a hole. So now you have the pipe stickingthrough here. Now you can just flash this with the caulking to make it seal around thispipe. But were probably going to end up doing that once we get all the tile in andfiguring out exactly how deep it has to be with our tile work. Okay, so when you putthe next panel in you just pinch the two together with one washer, and that makes a nice, flushtransition. I meant to mention that these building panelsare meant to be on 16 centered walls. So make sure that your framing is 16 on centeror close to it. Now lets go ahead and smooth this out.Were going to be going back over this. We dont want this stuff setting up.So we do have a niche here.And what we did we marked out the bottom of the niche. Goinside here. Were going to cut this out. So we have 34 9/16. And we put our levelmarks for where were going to cut this. Steve used a level to mark out the positionof the niche, as you can see there. And then what hes doing is cutting out the nicheusing a Fein Multi-Master multi-tool. You can also use a utility knife, but using theMulti-Master is way quicker and saves you tons of time.Now what youll do is youllpinch the screws about 1 from the edge of that niche. You can use a chalk line tocut out the rest of your boards. And wherever Wedi meets Wedi, apply a generous amount ofWedi sealant. Only use Wedi sealant. Then you can apply your next board to the top ofthat Wedi sealant. Put it in place. And then again pinch the screws between adjacent boards.This will save you screws, itll save you time, so on and so forth. From the edge ofthe top, youll always want to put a Wedi screw about 1 away from the edge on eitherside. As you can see, thats exactly what Steve is doing here. And only use Wedi screwsand Wedi washers when applying Wedi to your framing. And smooth out any sealant that oozesout between the seams. Again, Steve is marking the position of his niche and cutting it out.So for the niche, well go ahead and cut a bottom sill first.Okay, and you want tomake sure that your sill is actually draining into the shower. So if any water hits theback of the niche, if it gets underneath the tile, make sure that its level to pitchon the shower. You dont need much. Its roughly say per foot, just like theshower pan will be good enough. Just make sure you have Wedi caulking to the bottombuilding panel.And were just going to seal this bottom together. Thats just theWedi sealant. So just make sure that you have enough sealant around the perimeter of theniche. And then wherever Wedi meets Wedi make sure you have This is the most importantjoint Id say here at the bottom here, making sure you have a good caulking joint. Wellsmooth this out for now. Were going to go over this on the final sealant stage.So what our recommendation possibly for the niche if you want to get a little bit deeperof a niche, is to use the real thin board. This is 1/8 thick Wedi, so youll beable to do this in the back and give yourself at least another 3/8 in depth. So itsalways an option.Wherever Wedi meets Wedi, you want to puta nice caulking joint, especially at the bottom, and then going up the side panel as well.So lets set this panel in place. That just makes a nice, flush cut on that.Apply a generous bead of Wedi sealant to the back of the niche and to anywhere where theWedi meets Wedi. In this case, Steve is applying it on the blue part of the Wedi panel, puttingin his small piece for the niche. And then using screws and washers 3 from the top,3 from the bottom, and right at the center of the small portion of the panel.Smoothout the Wedi sealant, so it doesnt gunk up on you. We are going to apply a secondlayer of Wedi sealant later on. But as you can see, Steve is applying a nice, generousbead to anywhere where Wedi meets Wedi. Now one thing we did want to mention is you canbuy a pre-fabricated Wedi niche. In this case, the niche is so small that they didnt makea pre-fabricated one at the factory. So we had to build it using excess Wedi panel. Soyou can do the exact same thing that we did for a customized shower niche. This only tookSteve about 20 minutes for Steve to do, so it doesnt take all that long.Okay, so the most important part of this system is making sure that you have a sufficientamount of sealant in your dado joint before you adhere that panel into the channel.Sobe very generous with the amount. And thats what also is nice is to have some blockingbehind here. Now we recessed this pan below the subfloor. So I mean its your bottomplate allows it to just squeeze up against that. But its a good idea just to fillthis entire joint with sealant. All right, in where the corner where Wedi meets Wedi,you want to make sure you have a nice joint. You can see the way thats oozing onto thatjoint. That shows that you have a good amount of coverage in there. Were going to begoing back over this, but you dont want this to setup and be all clumpy in the corners.So again about 1 from the bottom and then every 1 after that.Notice that Steve ispositioning the washers on the Wedi panels, then hes going to back and screw them intoplace. You can also draw a vertical plumb line on the Wedi panel using you level anda pencil or just a chalk line. We have a port here for a handheld shower,so were just going to demonstrate how you easily be able to find where that locationis. So you usually have an area where thats at. So that makes it pretty easy to find.Okay, so that dry fits well. So wherever Wedi meets Wedi, put a good caulking joint.Wherever two panels meet, you can pinch them together using a screw and a washer. Wherevertwo screws meet in a corner, you always want to stagger the screws. And then youll seehere that again Steve is just puncturing the back of the Wedi panel and then cutting itout using a utility knife.That is so much easier than using a cement board, which canlead to you have to measure and cut it out. So wherever Wedi meets Wedi, you got to usethe Wedi sealant. Apply it to the blue portion of the board. To the corner, like Steve didthere. Youll see many of the principles that were showing you right now, wereusing over and over again throughout this video tutorial, like pinching the screws,putting them 1 from the top of the framing or the edge of the board, and so on.So after you have two walls put in, you have over half an hour of time. You can take offthe weight out of the shower.Okay, so against the bench, were goingto end up Wedi-ing this entire bench and tub surround. But for right now, were goingto just go to the edge of the shower, and were going to just notch out the Wedi sothat this sets down into the dado of the shower pan. So if youre not going to waterproofthe entire tub surround, you definitely want to come out a good 2 to 3 outside ofthe shower area and seal this down. Were going to make sure that it sits tightly toour subfloor here. Sits well with that dado channel. Again, fill this joint with the Wedicaulking. Again, make sure you clean out this joint of any thinset or any debris, and makesure that you could get adhesion to the actual foam pan. You dont want anything hinderingthis sealant from making contact with the actual Wedi. Wedi the corner. And what weregoing to here were actually going to use the Wedi caulking on the main subfloor aswell. Now there will be a waterproof heated cable system that were going to be usingon the outside of here.But were just going to seal this Wedi panel to the subfloor. Tehnwell show you how were going to complete the waterproofing of the edge of that.On this bench material, were just going to be screwing a washer about 1 away fromthe top of the edge, and were going to stay within 8-12 from the bottom ofthe panel. So just like your other wall panels, you just want to make sure that youre atleast 8-12 away from the bottom of the panel.And every 12.Okay, so on this bench any horizontal surface that you put Wedi down, you dont want touse the washers and screws and screw in horizontally. So were going to thinset this board downinstead of using any of the fasteners. notch trowel. Again, either flat side yourtrowel and burn it into the substrate first. Where the Wedi is, you want to wipe that thinsetoff and get down to the blue because youre going to want to seal the Wedi to the Wediwith the sealant, not the thinset. So with the sealant, too, you dont have to worryabout it being wet. Itll seal itself to the membrane even wet, even with a littlebit of water on it. Were also just going to back butter the back of the Wedi as well.So yeah, anything Wedi to Wedi make sure you have a good amount of sealant. Wipe the excesssealant. Smooth for now. Hopefully when youve framed it, you sloped it as well. You alwayswant to make sure that your bench is sloping into the shower, so when you tile it, if anywater gets below the tile, that youre waterproofing double the drain that water.So here we gotabout per foot. So thats about what you want. Yeah were pretty level that way.So just double check. You can always possibly build up the thinset and get that slope ifyou needed it. Wherever Wedi meets Wedi, apply your generousbead of Wedi sealant. In this case its up against the framing as well, where thebench seat is going to be, and then up the wall. And this is really important becausein this particular shower, the sprayers are going to be hitting that back wall possibly.Now water goes everywhere in a walk-in shower, so you have to make sure that youve got100% waterproof panels. In this case, the Wedi system really helps you do that. Again,what Steve is doing is placing the washers about 8-12 up from the bottom, and thensmoothing out any of the Wedi sealant that oozes out between the panels. And also going12 in between the screws and then up the wall again. Many of the principles that wevealready showed you with the other panels were using with this wall as well, all right? Sojust continue to follow these general principles, and you should be good to go.So this is your plumbing wall. I also meantto mention that you can install this panel. It doesnt matter whether the letteringson the front or the back because each side is waterproof. So it really doesnt matterwhich way you install the panel. So were just going to use our panel. Puncture thecenter. Im just going to use a 3 hole saw for my dial. You can obviously just cutthis out with a utility knife, too. But this looks a little bit nicer. Okay.So make sure you clean out that joint before you go installing some new dado. Then ourWedi meets Wedi. So then in the corners you want to offset your washers. So you dontwant to put the washer next to a washer in the corner and have that big void all theway around that corner. What were doing now is prepping for theWedi sealant. Were applying a generous bead of Wedi sealant against the framing.And then Steve is marking out the position of the joists on the Wedi panels so that heknows how to attach the screws through the panels.Okay, so we put our sealant around the edge of the perimeter of the shower where Wediis going to meet Wedi.So the biggest difference we do in a ceiling is the spacing of yourwashers. You want to go every 6 rather than every 12. And were actually goingto be putting another little piece here, so were going to put these two together. Itjust requires a lot more fasteners. To make life a lot easier with the ceiling,you can place your washers in them every 6 like Steve is doing here. Sometimes it justmakes it a little bit easier to place the washers first then drill the Wedi screws throughthem. Its up to you. Whatever you want to do is fine. But in this particular case,sometimes its nice to just have the washers in place and then screw them.So as Steve mentioned earlier, we had to place a little piece of the Wedi panel up on theceiling there. Not a big deal. Just screw your washers in about 1 from the edge.And then pinch your washers and screws in between the adjacent panel.Okay, so now that we have all the building panels up, were going to go ahead and applythe Wedi sealant to all our screw washers, all the joints and all the corners.Two toolsthat are really helpful: Wedi actually sells a corner putty knife. This makes it tremendouslyeasy to have a nice joint in the corners, keeping you from scraping out the sealantin the corner. So definitely get yourself one of these. And this is just a standard4 putty knife. And the rule of thumb is pretty much getting 2 of coverage on ajoint. So 1 on either side of the corners. So thats kind of what youre lookingfor. But its a very simple process. Lets show you how to go across. You just have anice, thick bead of the sealant. You know, Ill do this whole wall first rather thangoing back and forth with the putty knife. But you want to just dot every one of yourwashers. And then the corners. Just put a generous amount in that corner. Thats wherethe sausage gun is really helpful because you have a lot more caulking in this tube.You get a lot more done than just a regular caulking gun.Okay, so your corners.So a corner putty knife really makes a nice, sealed joint in thatcorner. So that makes a nice corner joint there. As you can see I have some of my washerthere. So you just want to make sure that each washer is completely covered. Thatswhere the flat putty knife is helpful with that. So anywhere you see those washers. Andreally anywhere you missed the Wedi screw, make sure you just apply that sealant overthat joint as well. Anywhere a Wedi panel meets a Wedi panel oryou have a screw hole or a washer, make sure you apply generous amounts of the Wedi sealantbecause this after all is what will make the Wedi panels 100% waterproof. So be generouswith the Wedi sealant. All right, so around the niche you just wantto fill inyou dont have to worry about the blue being exposed necessarily, but youwant to be able to coat this entire joint that we have between the side panel and thefront panel here.Because even if this blue is exposed, its still waterproof. Thisis actually the waterproofing. So you dont actually necessarily have to have that allcovered, but you probably will be having it all covered once you spread out the sealant.Be generous with the Wedi sealant where our vertical building panel meets up with thepan because this is where you want to make sure that its 100% waterproof. Keep inmind that the building panels are sitting down into the dado joint and alreadyhave sealant on them. So this is really a second layer of the Wedi sealant. Now in thiscase were applying more of the sealant on the bench because this is exposed to thesprays and the shower head. And also the corner between the vertical board and the showerseat itself. And then smooth out all those joints, ensuring that you get that 2 bandwithin the seams.So one of the things that I absolutely loveabout the Wedi system is, you know, a lot of times you do this waterproofing beforetiling. And you have other contractors coming in and working on the place. And its justvery easy for somebody to puncture the membrane. And what I wanted to share with youthisis just one of the washers that we have. Now imagine if you used a different type of systemthat was only just a surface membrane, and if you were to step on this, you could easilyjust puncture a membrane. But with the Wedi system, this is thick. So as long aswhatever you drop, say even a utility knife that falls into this pan, as long as it doesntactually penetrate all the way through the pan, youre safe.Its going to be waterproof.So thats one of the features about the Wedi system I absolutely love. You donthave to be as nervous about dropping a tool or dropping something that could possiblypuncture the top of the surface because youre still waterproof underneath that as long asit doesnt go all the way through the pan. And thats a very common time is betweenhaving other contractors coming in and doing different work before you do the tile. Ifyou did a sheet membrane of some sort, it would be very difficult for you to tell wheresomething was dropped and potentially where something was compromised with the waterproofing.But with the Wedi, I mean even if you dropped a good size hammer hole, you can just fillin this hole with some Wedi caulking and be good to go.Okay, so with the Wedi shower pan, itll come with these little pieces of Wedithat is made to fill in anywhere that the shower is going to be curbless.And itsreally important to use this between the subfloor and the main floor. And youre just goingto seal this in just like you do everything else with the Wedi sealant. And it seems alittle silly to have such a small piece, but the main important part about this is thatif you just fill that with sealant, its not going to have the strength it needs forsay if you have smaller mosaic tile, theres going to be a little bit of a flex. So youwant to make sure you have this little piece of Wedi embedded into this joint.Okay, so well fill that just like all the other dados. Just apply a normal 1 layersealant on either side of this. And then what we have is a Wedi subliner. And what you wantto do is So in this situation, you always want to havewaterproofing going outside of your curbless entry, at least by 3 or so, and wrappingup the sides of the liner up the wall about 4.So this is prior to obviously beforewere going to be installing the drywall, and then you have this against the Wedi. Alwaysgo 4 up above your corners, and then 4 past your seam of your shower. So you wantthis subliner coming into the shower. Now in this particular situation were actuallygoing to put a heated flooring system outside the shower. So this subliner will go overtop of that heating system after we have that installed. But I just want to reference thatif you were not going to install a heating system, you just put this straight down overthe plywood by thinsetting this and wrapping up by 4. And then you just simply cut theexcess of the doorway and allow this to flap over and into the shower.Okay, so thats it.Thats installing the waterproof Wedi shower system. And whatsawesome about it is that that took about a half a day to install this entire waterproofsystem. And I can actually get started on tiling here. Basically after you seal allthe joints, about 30 minutes after that you can start tiling. And if I wanted to do aflood test on the floor, which I do recommend, you can go ahead and flood test this showerfloor two hours after having it installed. So really theres no other system that canbe that quick. Its really incredible. A traditional way of doing this, youd beset back two, three days easy. So thats one of the major reasons I love Wedi.Andall of that, just the simplicity of putting everything together.So I hope this helps you out. I really feel that anybody can do this. You just followthese tips and the way to install it, and youll definitely have peace of mind thatyou have a waterproof shower. So thank you. All right, so thats how you build a walk-inshower. Remember if you missed the first video, you can watch that right here. It shows youhow to build out the Wedi Ligno shower pan. If you liked todays video, give us a thumbsup over here on YouTube, so that people can find it. And then finally, if youre lookingfor more advanced bathroom remodeling videos, you can check them out over on BathroomRepairTutor.com.So you can go to BathroomRepairTutor.com. Thats where we have support for DIYers;we got extra videos. Actually we have over 100 different videos for you to watch on tilingthe floor, tiling the shower, putting in waterproofing for your floor, and so much more. So again,you can check that out on BathroomRepairTutor.com.Thanks for watching todays video. Wellsee you in the next one. Take care. Have a great day..

Vet Home Repair Pt.2

Served our nation and at present volunteers are teaming up to do some dwelling enhancements for one neighborhood veteran Gina comfort reside in Sacramento with a seem on the development just right morning good morning so I had an completely special phase planned for you for this special moment in time but you already know what simply occurred what simply occurred what is best than one Cleo to Cleo’s look what they just found inside a Cleo’s backyard Leo and what’s your title Adrian Adrian and you’re gonna take lo Cleo dwelling and of path she had to identify it Cleo right I imply that is so fitting hahaha ok thanks a lot for letting us see you have to come get closed Abe can you come get towards your little kitten Cleo i do know we chatted about what is going on on at your residence but did you know you had some kittens residing within the outdoor no we have 35 volunteers with house Depot Habitat for Humanity is right here and what’s going on within the outdoor is in order that amazing but that is where they observed this little cutie back within the fence real speedily simply take me back to the fact one other time the years you served Cleo and how glad you might be to see your house getting remodeled to support suit your wants after I was in the provider again in 1979 1985 when I used to be within the Marine Corps all right now it can be just robust Mia what all these folks are doing you recognize I just failed to anticipate all of this and nonetheless you recognize I just suppose good inside just right well we are so glad to hear you’re feeling excellent inside of looking at all this watching at all of them appreciated greater than ever seen good we are gonna tell you you deserve this greater than you suppose that you simply recognize it sir you deserve this for the time you’ve served and what you’ve got achieved for our nation and to your family I additionally need to speak to Habitat for Humanity Lane is with us this morning as good speaking about simply the scope of this project so come on over there are such a large amount of people right here so many shrunk positions as well what exactly is going on inside and external so in these days is day one in all our vital restore mission for Clio we’re calling it Cleo’s return house challenge so we’re demoing they’re doing a ton of landscaping casting off partitions with this assignment Clio hasn’t been competent to reside in his dwelling due to the fact of the shortage of accessibility and some beautiful significant deferred important renovation problems and so we brought a quantity of partners to the desk some really powerful other housing nonprofits step ahead in order that we might achieve this carry because it’s this type of enormous-scale challenge so rebuilding collectively and cuny useful resource venture and neighbor works and then residence Depot of direction has are available as an extremely powerful companion they usually’re right here at present with dozens of volunteers helping us this task it is just wonderful to see what number of individuals are here volunteering their time and again Clio is wheelchair sure and he mentioned you already know there used to be a lot of carpet in this residence there’s home he did aid build a very long time ago about 30 years in the past nevertheless it wanted some big repairs that needed numerous refreshers and so he’s getting a manufacturer-new kitchen a brand new rest room it can be just some thing that is certainly so wanted and needed for him and his loved ones he is now got grandchildren who he is gonna expectantly make some new recollections within this wonderful new residence with Habitat for Humanity and all of the other volunteers making that possible so once more that is what’s taking place here in Del Paso this morning and Clio instances – that’s so exceptional – thanks Tina the

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